A group of Guyanese are currently sightseeing in India where they celebrated Phagwah. In conversations on the phone, they said they had a most wonderful Phagwah celebration in the Pink City of Jaipur. They indicated the entire trip so far has been filled with memories of a lifetime but the Phagwah celebration itself was unique taking place in a village with celebrants coming together as a family.
The tour operator, Ramesh Kalicharran of Bush Lot Essequibo, said the celebration cannot be described in words. “You have to actually experience it to feel the depth of love the people have for us as fourth generation Indians from the West Indies. You have to be here to see how our ancestors celebrated this magnificent festival and transplanted it to Guyana and other parts of the Caribbean where it is institutionalized and enjoyed by people of other ethnic groups as well. The people in India were somewhat surprised that we were so deep into the culture and traditions of India. They really admire and salute us for holding on to our ancestral heritage 172 years after our ancestors migrated from the holy land of Mother India”.
The group of mostly NY-based Guyanese left two weeks ago aboard the non-stop Air India flight (of about 15 hour’s journey) to New Delhi where they were accorded a traditional welcome of garlanding by their hosts. They said the AI flight was fabulous with the attendants serving them royally with unlimited complimentary drinks, snacks, two hot meals, in between sandwiches and cookies, fruits, mango juice, etc. “It was one of the best flights making us feel like being home with the kind of cuisine served on board. This is a first class airline. Guyanese would love it. The entertainment of film and music were varied with golden oldies and new films including Hollywood and Bollywood releases. Each seat had its own video screen with over a dozen films to choose from”.
After sightseeing in Delhi, the group visited several other cities of religious significance and celebrated Holi with locals in Jaipur. They observed the burning of Holika known Holika Dahan. They said they were mesmerised by the throngs of crowds celebrating Phagwah with people decked out in their beautiful traditional garb of sari, lahenga, kurtha, choli, pajama, etc. The ladies were bedecked in their colorful jewelry and dupatta. Celebrants were smeared in bright colorful dyes. Their bodies and clothes were stained beyond recognition just like in Guyana in a variety of colors. People of all religions partook in the celebration. Even foreign tourists were into the festivities. Mohan, one of tourists, said it was a fantastic celebration. “It was great, the finest Holi I ever experienced and the people are so friendly and hospitable. Man this was some celebration bringing back a lot of memories from Guyana the way we celebrate the festival”.
Another Guyanese celebrant said: “The Phagwah was magnificent just like back home. They use a lot of pitchkaries and there are colors of abeer and abrack I have never seen before. We have not lost anything in the Phagwah culture but I sure envy them since we can’t celebrate the same way in NY”.
Kali said the smearing of each other was widespread. Gulal and abeer were sprayed on each other. We played among ourselves and with the locals. People danced to Phagwah songs and they drank milk and other beverages.
The Phagwah meals were similar to Guyana’s with yellow dhal, lentil, rice, and a variety of sabjis or tarkharis (including cauliflower, alou, ochro or bindi,) and non-vegetarian as well. There were a lot of pakhoras (including baiganee, and bara with chilis, cauliflower, etc. enclosed within).
It was a fun and frolic time for the visiting Guyanese in India, a Phagwah celebration they will not forget.
Guyanese celebrate Phagwah in India
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