–A celebration of African culture through fashion

By Gibron Rahim

THE African contribution to the world of fashion is undeniable. African styles, designers and fabrics today cross oceans and continents towards global appeal. People the world over are discovering the timeless beauty of African fashion, even as that fashion extends its designs into modernity.
Guyana is not exempt from this surge. At the forefront of the local African fashion movement is the Makeda boutique.

Located at 146 Albert & Regent Streets, Makeda recently celebrated its first anniversary, and its owner, Aisha Haynes, is overjoyed at the response from the public. “It has been surprisingly ‘fantabulous’, as we say at Makeda,” she said. “People from all backgrounds, walks of life have embraced the store and the Makeda experience.
“They have been very supportive and enthusiastic about the array of fabrics, shoes, and accessories we carry.”
According to Aisha, the experience over this past year has been an enjoyable one, and Makeda has welcomed different categories of customers during this time. “We have had fun meeting a range of fashion enthusiasts and customers who know exactly what they want,” she said, adding:
“And seeing the expression of satisfaction on their faces, and then trying to figure out what the uncertain, modest or timid customers want and seeing them light up when they find something they love has been priceless.”

The road has not been without a few bumps, however. “Being new and unique, we have had a few learning experiences,” Aisha said. “We are still trying to feel our way in this market in our attempt to determine what our customers would respond well to. It is a challenge, as there is not really a comparative,” she added.
But despite the difficulties, she and Makeda remain undaunted. “We are excited, as we have a range of ideas which we plan to roll out,” Aisha said. “We are tapping into our ‘kuumba’ (creativity), and have a few collaborations in the pipeline; we are committed to the customer experience, and being young in this we can only grow.”

A RANGE OF POSSIBILITIES

The sheer variety of African cultures that influence African fashion undoubtedly provide Makeda with a range of possibilities for readymade and designed pieces. Indeed, Aisha was sure to acknowledge that the African continent is comprised of 54 countries, and a total population of over a billion people, with hundreds of ‘Kingdoms and Queendoms’ and thousands of ethnic groups, beliefs and religions.

“At Makeda,” she said, “we try to feature styles from North, South, East and West Africa in the best way we can, as genuine African fashion is labour-intensive and expensive.”

She went on to explain that a lot of the material available at Makeda are West African-influenced, since a majority of Guyanese of African Descent have roots there. Besides, Makeda also features styles, sandals and beadwork from East African countries such as Kenya, and handwoven cottons and linen styles from places like Ethiopia and Morocco.
This range of styles being featured is really a part of Makeda’s mission. “From the laces, sequence pieces, cottons, gold thread overlays, we try to represent the glory and beauty of material and styles from all across Africa,” said Aisha. Rather than simply offering solely traditional styles though, Makeda goes a step further. According to Aisha, “The beauty of what we do, the customisation, allows us to add the touch of the Diaspora, while we attempt to push our own local styles and designers.” She was also sure to add, “Culture is ever changing; it adapts with time, and at Makeda, we offer some more traditional styles, but we also offer modern mixes and variations to really capture, in what little way we can, the beauty and diversity of the African continent.”

THE ANKARA
Among the textiles popularly used in Makeda’s pieces is the Ankara fabric, and according to Aisha, there has been a growing global interest in it. Ankara prints have been featured on the runways of Paris, Milan and New York for the last two years, she said.
African designers have also been receiving recognition, and appeal that also extends to Guyana. “People come into the store daily with styles they found Online or through social media that they hope we have or can create for them,” Aisha said, adding:
“There is a clear resurgence of Ankara fabrics; the fact that I carry over 30-plus brands of fabrics, and I am very selective of the brands I carry, I am yet to tap the surface of Ankara fabrics and varieties.”
Aisha notes, too, that there are persons who are interested in unique Ankara pieces, and have tried shopping and shipping them in. They have had mixed results, in terms of quality and fit, as well as uniqueness, as the method is becoming a popular one. “They begin to turn to, and appreciate, places like Makeda to make them something that no one else would have,” Aisha said.

Cultural appropriation is an issue that comes into the conversation when African fashion, or indeed any fashion based in a culture not one’s own is involved. Aisha did not shy away from addressing the issue. “Guyana is a country of six races, so you will have intermingling, and people appreciating items from various cultures. And that is fine, as long as you acknowledge the source,” she said. “Anyone can wear and rock African prints, as long as they acknowledge they are African,” she added.

A TIME TO CELEBRATE

Emancipation is a time to celebrate freedom and African culture. African fashion is an important part of African culture, and at Makeda’s, it is celebrated every day. There are readymade pieces created by designers from the African continent and from the Diaspora. And custom tailoring by Ghanaian designer Richard Tam, who is based out of Makeda, is also available.
Whether choosing from the array of ankaras, laces, kente, embroidered laces, ohemaa, seersuckers, wedding laces and jeweled embellished materials or from accessories, dolls, cards or “pretty much anything African”, an authentic African fashion experience is the intent.
And indeed, all are welcome to celebrate it. “Everyone and anyone can wear African clothing proudly,” Aisha says, “as it is not just ‘African clothing’; it’s fashion!”