HOW ironic that a person could die simply by consuming a meal of any by-product of the bitter cassava that is under-cooked. This is what, tragically, an indigenous couple, Cosmos and Pauline Thomas, of Aishalton, Region 9, found out.
Moments after consuming a meal of ‘kadakura’ or ‘toma’ (IAmerindian pepperpot) Pauline and Cosmos Thomas, a couple in their mid-forties, from Aishalton, Region 9, had to be air-dashed to the Georgetown Public Hospital, after showing signs of food poisoning.

Pathetically, the woman died two days later. While her husband remains under close medical attention at the High Dependency Unit of the institution.

Medical sources suspect that they may have been poisoned from traces of cyanide contained in the improperly cooked cassava water (juice) used to make the ‘toma’

The sweet cassava was traditionally known to be a simple ‘stand-alone’ staple, but it’s amazing the way the innovative genius of Guyanese chefs has, over time, changed the concept, preparation and presentation of this vegetable to new and appealing culinary heights.

Some of the better known cassava-based cuisine include cassava bread, cassava pone, cassava yum-yum, cassava balls, egg balls, savoury cassava balls, cassava puffs with ground chicken filling, cassava salad, ‘boil and fry’, cassava quenchers; farine (a cereal which can be eaten uncooked or made into porridge), cassava pone, cassava casserole, hot and tasty pepperpot made from rich cassava cassareep.

Down through the years, and until rice and corn became popular sources of calories in British Guiana, the cassava was used as the main staple, and was utilized across the spectrum, effectively bridging ethnic enclaves across the country.

By-products of cassava

It must be made clear however, that there is a distinct difference between ‘bitter cassava’ and ‘sweet cassava’. Sweet cassava is immediately edible upon being cooked, and can be prepared in a variety of dishes, no less than ten of which are popular and relished by probably all ethnic groups across Guyana today. There’s an art to preparing cassava bread, cassareep, tapioca and farine which are all by-products of the bitter cassava. Unless this is strictly observed, the consequences can prove fatal.

Bitter cassava contains toxins (cyanide) which must be carefully extracted before the cassava can be edible. Just in case you would have mistakenly peeled and attempted to boil bitter cassava, Simon Foster, 52, of St. Cuthbert’s Mission advises, it ‘will not boil’ (or become soft). Also it will have a bitter taste and that’s what you need to guard against. Foster, an indigenous expert on the preparation of all types of indigenous foods, has been exposed to making these all his life..

Cassava bread is made from the residue after the juice of the cassava has been extracted using a long cylindrical nibbi extractor called a ‘matapee’. This residue is then dried for about a day or two, sifted, then baked on a scorching hot grid. It may be used while soft and hot, as preferred by the indigenous peoples, or dried out in the sun for a few hours, then stored.

Cassareep:  One of the finest and most sought-after condiments, and one of the main ingredients used in making the popular Guyanese dish, ‘pepperpot’.
Interestingly, the same toxic juice extracted from the bitter cassava after it has been grated is boiled for several hours in a large pot, the scum being continuously skimmed off as it comes to the surface, until it becomes thick, tacky, and of a pure dark brown, almost black look. That substance is the pure, unadulterated cassareep. It has a tacky consistency, and, when bottled, does not pour easily.

Kadaruka, an Amerindian word meaning ‘gravy’, is made by adding water to the scum extracted from the cassareep when it is being boiled. It is re-boiled for several minutes. Seasoned meat (fish or wild meat) and hot peppers are added while the kadaruka is brought to the boil. The end product is a tasty gravy which is preferably eaten with freshly baked, soft cassava bread. It is an Amerindian specialty.

Cassava starch is, in effect, the white sediment which settles at the bottom of the (toxic) juice extracted from the grated cassava. The starch is used in laundering to keep otherwise soft and soggy materials stiff, and to make pronounced seams in cotton or denim garments.

By Shirley Thomas

(Photos courtesy Annette Arjoon Maarte)