WITH the wind rushing through my hair in refreshing haste and sometimes stinging my eyes in its intensity, I reclined in the minibus seat and welcomed the experience, since it seemed to eliminate the day’s stress from toiling to ensure another day was made as normal and exciting as it could be.

Still relishing the rush of the piquant country breeze,
I mused on the chores to be completed when I returned home. The bus rounded a corner, and I was greeted with the strikingly charming picture of Parika, a vibrant East Bank Essequibo community possessing all that it takes to become Guyana’s major township, with its exhilarating fusion of economic bustle and dynamic agricultural productivity.

Beautiful Parika
Parika is a port township located on the coastland of Region Three (Essequibo Islands/West Demerara). It is popular for the Ministry of Works and Transport’s ferry service connecting the West Demerara/East Bank Essequibo mainland to the riverine communities and islands of the Essequibo. A special feature of Parika is its notably busy Sunday market, abundant with a large variety of agricultural produce, household articles, and designer clothing and haberdashery.

This East Bank, Essequibo township has, over the years, seen considerable development and investments by the private sector, especially in the area of financial services. Almost all of the commercial banks operating in Guyana have a branch at Parika. It is also a major hub for land transport, since it is a route stop for local taxis, commonly called “buses.” Its population stood at 4,081 in 2002, according to the Population and Housing Census count conducted by the Bureau of Statistics; but, to date, that has increased by over two thousand residents, according to information garnered from the elderly roadside vendor named Niaomi Hinds.

Pre-development Parika
Had you visited Parika in the late 70s or early 80s, you would not have been confronted with the now sophisticated and stately commercial buildings, posh houses and elaborate offices that now greet the visitor. During that era, as indicated by incumbent Neighbourhood Development Council (NDC) Chairman Jaideo Sookhoo, Parika had a very small population, and was afforded only a very small health centre; a solitary primary school, the St. Stephen’s Anglican School; and a very small police station; but the few residents were very jovial and co-operative even then.

In those days, he said, there was no fancy Charles Street, Peter Street, or Jeseme Street for residents to boast of. Those areas were transported plots belonging to a few villagers, and were not fully developed until 2001.

What is now the very well maintained Parika Canal was before time called the Parika Main Drain, and was a much smaller trench that in part helped with draining excess water from Parika. Drainage, very bad in the late 80s, according to Mr. Sookhoo, has improved over the years, and can be said to have attained some 80% of its intended perfection.

The single sawmill operating in Parika then was dubbed ‘The Rabichand Sawmill’; but today, several new mills have popped up in and around Parika. Roads were bad, and vendors were scattered practically anywhere, plying their trades. Parika was a very bushy location, with houses scattered in squatter settlement design. There was not the slightest hint of the very booming commercial presence that is seen today.

The Parika Backdam was just a narrow section of land spiralling into the backlands. Though it has been attended to and made to look much more attractive, the Chairman admitted it is presently in a deplorable condition.

In time past, there were several prominent teachers in the area who produced doctors, lawyers, chairmen and CEOs from their academic teachings. And amongst the popular names are Sir Allan Barnes, Mr. Grinds, Sir Kilas, Sir Brown, and a few others.

Mr. Sookhoo, born and bred in Parika, and residing there for over forty-five years, said Parika has already witnessed 75% of its possible development, but the remaining 25% is sorely affected by rate payers’ failure to pay their dues. “Parika is a beautiful place, and has already attained some seventy-five percent of its possible development. However, rate and taxes payers fail to pay their dues, and as such, large amounts are outstanding. These sums, if paid in, can aid in ensuring the infrastructure of Parika is enhanced positively. And this, of course, will benefit residents in the long run,” he said.

Chairman Sookhoo is also calling on residents, vendors, businesses, minibus drivers, touts and conductors to refrain from dumping their garbage irresponsibly around the township, since, besides marring the beauty of the location, it potentially jeopardizes the health and wellbeing of the residents.

I disembarked the bus and was engulfed in the kaleidoscope of residents, visitors and the transient milling about in pursuit of their business, shopping, chatting pleasantly by the roadside, or proceeding on their way in a hurry.

Minibus drivers and conductors were dashing about soliciting passengers, and the boisterous shouts of vegetable, food and clothing vendors filled the air as they all attempted to market their goods and services at the same time. The shouts of: “Come get yuh juicy mangoes!”, “Nice, fresh apples, grapes and oranges!” were a welcome refrain to ears that had grown tired of the banal blare of motorized traffic in the city, although those shouts were occasionally drowned out by the shouts of “Hey, Parika/Georgetown!” “Parika/Vreed-en-Hoop deh!” as the gathering of minibus conductors sometimes almost stampeded in their quest to be the first to approach the many hot and, in some cases, tired commuters.

People were rushing by in large numbers, chatting cheerily as they hastened to catch the speedboats moored outside the Parika Stelling, bound for destinations like Bartica, Supenaam, and any of the many islands in the sprawling Essequibo River. Others were hurrying from the stelling, burdened by large bags as they went about catching minibuses to transport themselves and their purchases from Parika to the city or to any of the villages along that route.

Some porters sporting man-drawn carts rushed about requesting, and in some cases demanding, to carry the heavy luggage of travellers, in order that they might earn a quick dollar.

The MV Malali was about to leave for the Essequibo Islands, and drivers were ensuring that their vehicles were on board that vessel before it chugged off into the horizon.

A heavy wind blowing in from the north was causing waves of considerable size to appear on the hitherto placid face of the Essequibo River, and toss the moored speedboats to and fro with some degree of violence. This strangely did not seem to deter the many travellers from boarding those craft to travel on the river, an attitude no doubt spawned from the habit of constantly braving the forces of nature. I watched in awe as many speedboats departed the stelling to begin bobbing like corks on top of the river as they travelled to their various destinations.

Parika certainly appeared to be a very busy and productive township. Its towering buildings created a distinct commercial sophistication reminiscent of the Garden City (Georgetown).
All around, people dashed about in businesslike purposefulness as they visited the Parika Shopping Complex; the Inner Retreat Hotel; the Ocean Chinese Restaurant; Scotia, Citizens, or Guyana Bank for Trade and Industry Ltd; or the Western Union outlets present.

Business was very brisk at the NALICO branch, Sissons Paints entity, Boodhoo’s General Store, Caribbean Heat Creole Restaurant, KS Pharmacy, and the Massive DVD and CD Centre.
And the fast-food outlets were overflowing with customers who were intent on making their lunch or snack selections either Church’s or Mario’s (Pizza King) brands. Others seemed satisfied with purchasing hot creole dishes from the many roadside food stalls, or from the popular A & S Snackette and many other similar food joints.

And there is a Bill Express branch office, Digicel outlets, and, of course, the Guyana Revenue Authority is well represented, along with the Guyana Elections Commission. These are just some of the businesses represented in the attractive ‘economic haven’ that time does not permit us to mention.
Parika is quite a beautiful place to visit at any time of the week. If you are a nature lover, you would just adore the rich green foliage and the many trenches and lush vegetation of the Hubu Backdam. The simplicity of Charles and Peter streets evokes a refreshing ‘countryside solitude’, and Jeseme Street is a location reserved for the more hyperactive individuals.
At St. Lawerence you can soak up the distinct aura of old world history fused with the epic transformation of modernization. Lookout, Salem and Naamryck are simple areas truly possessing ‘an almost innocent beauty’, accentuated by the pleasant hospitality of the residents that inhabit them.
If you are the more secluded and private type, then Parika certainly is the location to satisfy your leisure time whims and fantasies.

Employment
Almost everyone in Parika seemed to be employed, and there was hardly any mention of unemployment. Some were employed within and outside the village as teachers, nurses, police officers, vendors, and even fish mongers. There was something in this busy township for everybody to do. Some sold DVDs on small carts; others sold cold bottled water, and this seemed to be bringing in quite a quick dollar for the youths who pushed their carts around; and many seemed contented to be boat captains, and bowmen, while others maintained the drainage in the employ of the NDC. And of course there are bus drivers, conductors, and the negative presence of a few unruly mini-bus touts. Everybody just seemed to be doing something.

Unlike what obtains in sections of Georgetown, we encountered only two vagrants, even though we spent hours in Parika.

A few misgivings
Some vendors complained of a little flooding on the roadsides during the rainy seasons, but the NDC Chairman said the body is in the process of cleaning drains and trenches to ensure that drainage is further enhanced and flooding is eliminated.

Boat captains and bowmen complained bitterly about the deteriorating state of the Parika Stelling, which is in dire need of repair. Some felt the present state of the structure poses great dangers to commuters, captains and others using the facility. Boat Captain Samuel Hooper fervently appealed for rehabilitative work to be done on the stelling.

“This stelling is very important to us all, since it is used as a main port of entry and departure for persons visiting many areas in Guyana. Its present state does not promote safety or comfort for persons using it, and the relevant authorities should speed up intended repairs, because it is deteriorating every day!” he said.

According to the NDC Chairman, some works have begun in terms of repair to the Parika Stelling, and the cordoned off areas where repairs are intended is proof of such reports.

Residents are also calling on the relevant authorities to provide them with their own hospital and Fire Service branch in the advent of fires breaking out in the community.

Those complaints apart, life seems to be quite splendid in Parika, and fruit vendor Salim Ramroop explained. “I’ve been selling in the market for about twenty years; since I got married. And before that, I used to sell with my mother in the Parika Stelling for fifteen years. Things here are really good, you know, and I like working here because you get to meet a lot of new people every day when they are travelling through. A lot of them come here specifically to taste the Parika banana, because it’s much sweeter than the others.”

Push cart operator Lloyd Holder had a different story to tell. “Life here is really hard sometimes, in terms of earning a living; but I does have to still come out and hustle, because I have a family to provide for. Sometimes I come out and I can’t find parking for the cart, so I does have to be fetching bags or loading Canter, because I still have to work,” he said.

Taxi driver Clive Moore felt that Parika was on a good trajectory of economic development. “Parika is developing at a very fast rate,” he said. “This is probably because it serves as the main entryway to many of the mining operations in the interior. A lot of youths in the area are taking advantage of this and getting into business ventures such as selling, taxi work, boating, and even fetching bags.

“I notice that, when school is closed, the young boys would come around and fetch people’s bags to earn some money, too.
There are also many stores and eating places, like Mario’s and Church’s, that opened operation here because they realise the potential for business. All this development has caused a lot of congestion though. The cars, stalls, everything is all in one place. I think there should be some sort of restructuring so that things would be less clustered and congested at times,” he opined.

Dissatisfied vendors
And for many years now, a war continues to be waged between the Mora/Parika NDC body and vendors operation on the shoulders of the road leading to the busy Parika Stelling. Vendors are arguing that the NDC wants to place them to the rear of the Parika Market, where persons going in and out of Parika would hardly venture. As a result, the vendors would net meagre sales and are forced to come out on the road shoulders, in the direct path of the shoppers, business men, and all commuters rushing in and out of Parika. This war began in 2009 when former NDC Chairman Krishna Samlall was spearheading things in Parika. The vendors have been relentless in their complaints about mistreatment from the NDC and unavailability of a proper ‘sales location’ for them to ply their trade.
Before then, the vendors had complained that they were placed far behind the Parika Market at a location hardly traversed by anyone. They had complained of being unable to garner any significant sales, and as such had moved to another area along the roadside in a desperate bid to survive. They indicated that, on many occasions, they begged to be located at a strip of land just alongside the Parika Mini-Bus Park, which is the busiest area, but this request was refused by the NDC administration. The vendors pointed out that they depend on the sales from persons traversing the Parika minibus park, stelling and roadside, and were therefore crippled when they were placed at a location far behind the market, where almost no one visited.

Commenting on this issue, the current NDC Chairman, Mr Jaideo Sookhoo, noted that most of the vendors had stalls in the market but just wanted to operate wherever they wanted. He added that the NDC had met with the vendors on several occasions to resolve the impending issue, but most of them have refused to co-operate with the NDC.

Entertainment
Parika never sleeps, and there are entertainment hotspots all over the township. Along the roadside, every fast-food stands and other recreational establishments seem to be blasting music, much to the delight of the limers and those getting their fill of alcoholic beverages.
And the many push carts selling DVDs and CDs added an even more ‘musical frenzy’ to the entire community. Some minibuses added to the ‘entertainment fervor’ as they opened doors, their music sets filling the air with some of the most popular present-day selections.

Some of the larger night joints offer karaoke at least three times per week. Some residents prefer to travel short distances outside the community to various other nightclubs, because of the need to have their fun away from the prying eyes and wagging tongues of village gossipers.
And those who desire the more lavish open air entertainment sit around eagerly anticipating the To-To Gas Station’s hosting of many top-notch entertainment ventures at the Parika Centre Ground.

A few persons prefer to drink beers at beer gardens and engage in loud chatter on issues like politics, cricket, the GT&T Jingle and Song Competition and such like.

Parika is indeed a location with a striking story to tell….
Come, take a walk in its busy streets and jump out of your skin at the sudden honking of cars or minibuses. Sit down at an open-air fast food outlet and enjoy the tropical flavours of some of the tastiest Creole delicacies. Sit on the stelling and lose yourself to the noisy lapping of the Essequibo River waves, or observe the colourful and feisty spectacle of the boat captain or bowmen in action. Or enjoy humorous scenes of pull cart operators clashing in their drive to solicit maximum passengers’ luggage.

If you are visiting or just passing through Parika, spend a little time to discover and enjoy the striking mysteries of this intriguing township.