By Francis Quamina Farrier
WITH the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic and the resulting constraints in our movements, I have been reflecting on how we spent the Easter holidays in past years. Of course, kite flying was the major activity for the majority of Guyanese, whether on the coastlands or in the hinterland regions or the savannah lands of the North and South Rupununi. However, on the coastlands of Guyana, especially at the Georgetown seawall beach, the Hope Beach on the East Coast of Demerara and the Number 63 Beach on the Corentyne Coast, tens of thousands of kites of all sizes and shapes dance in the skies, as strings lead to adults and youths, joyfully flying their kites.
My very first tour to the Rupununi was over an Easter weekend. It was way back in the days of colonial British Guiana. There was no Tourism Authority at that time if my memory and records serve me well, I was part of a group that included Guianese, other West Indians, Americans, Canadians and a few “Brits.”
The organiser of the tour — and similar tours of which I was a member — was educator and Girl Guides leader, Marge Rockcliffe. She was a senior member of the well-known Rockcliffe clan. The recently deceased Leon “Gunn” Rockcliffe, was her nephew. All of my early tours to the deep hinterland, including my very first trip to the Kaieteur Falls, were as a a member of the Marge Rockcliffe Tour group. I was so impressed and satisfied with how well that tour was operated, that I was on board for the Easter weekend tour to the Rupununi the following year.
At that time, Miss Rockcliffe resided in the upper apartment of the Twins Drug Store at the corner of Middle and Cummings Streets in Georgetown. That was the assembly point for the tourists. From that location, we were transported by bus to the airport at Timehri. There we boarded a Guiana Airways Dakota airplane for the one-hour flight to Lethem. At that time Lethem was more or less a small village with all the streets being unpaved. Their surfaces were red dirt, and I clearly recall us having fun seeing who had the reddest dust on our bodies and clothes. What was most welcoming, was the friendliness of the local people. Those in particular who were responsible for our accommodation and meals were exceedingly competent and hospitable. The group also visited the ‘floating shops’ on the Brazilian side of the Takutu border river. The present town of Bon Fin on the Brazilian side of the river was only an idea back then.
The biggest portion of our overland adventure was a trip by truck, from Lethem due south around the western end of the majestic Kanuku Mountain Range; the home of the giant Harpy eagle. Our destination was the beautiful and friendly village of Sand Creek. If you are Guyanese and never flew over or set eyes on the Pakaraima Mountain Range or the Kanuku Mountain Range, I take this opportunity to encourage you to do so as soon as possible. Seeing these pearls of Mother Nature, which she has so graciously given to Guyana, must be treasured by all Guyanese. Enjoying the sight of such beauties of nature will most likely make you love Guyana even more. The giant ant hills in the Central Rupununi are also something to behold.
Sand Creek is almost 100 percent Catholic. On our arrival there we received a truly warm welcome from the people, including the English priest, Fr. McKennan, SJ, who was based there for a number of years. Being business-like, some of the people had already brought out items for sale. Our visit was known well in advance and so arts and craft, as well as food and drinks, were ready for sale. The visitors were financially prepared to do business. The villagers were also ready to do business. As such, there was much business, which included indigenous alcoholic beverages. No need to mention that some of the visitors, especially the men, began imbibing while yet in the village. Some wanted to prove to the villagers that they could ‘handle’ the indigenous brew. A few were not too successful and showed it by less control of their movements. Some of the younger villagers were giggling at the sight of the quick effects of the piwari on a few of the male visitors. The female visitors were more interested in items of art and craft. Their generous patronage was welcomed by the vendors. There wasn’t much kite-flying seen in the village during that visit.
After about three hours, it was time for the visitors to leave and return to Lethem. Many of the villagers gathered around to bid us farewell and a safe trip along the sandy trail around the Kanuku mountain back to Lethem. Miss Rockcliffe and one other female got into the cab of the truck with the driver. The rest of us made ourselves safe and as comfortable as possible in the tray of the truck. The engine was engaged and the truck began to move. Arms of the visitors, as well as the villagers, began to wave goodbye. Soon the truck was going past the boundary of the village and on to the main trail as a cloud of dust lagged behind it.
Suddenly the image of a person on horseback emerged from out of the cloud of dust. It was the priest galloping on his horse at full speed as his long silver beard was blowing in the warm Rupununi breeze. He was shouting, “You have left something. You have left something.” Each of the visitors began to take stock of their belongings; cameras, bags, and others. There was no let-up in the speed of the priest as his horse galloped past the truck which had by then, come to a stop. The priest turned and began heading back to the village as he continued to shout, “You have left something. You have left something.” And as he passed the truck still waving and smiling broadly, “You have left something. A good impression.” All on board that truck felt like a kite soaring and dancing high in the South Rupununi breeze as they headed back to Lethem to enjoy the rest of their Easter holiday in the Rupununi.
