NESTLED in the savannahs of Guyana’s South Rupununi, Morai Morai Ranch in the village of Katoonarib is a sanctuary for eco-tourism, offering a unique glimpse into the Indigenous way of life.
For the owner Nicholas “Uncle Bakes” Cyril, it has been more than a business—it’s a lifeline, a place where traditions were passed down and a land that is honoured.
But now, this cherished ranch stands at the frontlines of an environmental battle, with climate change threatening its operations.

Increased erratic weather patterns, ranging from extreme dry spells to flash flooding has seen Nicholas and other residents battling uncertainty.
“I had a setback lately, the rains came, all my house fell down and now we are trying to rehabilitate back,” he told the Sunday Chronicle during an interview recently.

It was back in June of 2024, after a day of heavy rainfall, Nicholas noticed that water from a nearby lake had begun to rise. This was uncommon, “[The lake] is nearby and the water came so high and I suffered some lost.”
Almost all of Nicholas’ home and business was washed away by flood waters. Though he is now rebuilding he said Morai Morai suffered a beating.

Nicholas disclosed that he has not had many visitors since the floods. But to rebuild Nicholas has received assistance from the Guyana Tourism Authority (GTA).

According to GTA’s director, Kamrul Baksh, though the authority does not have a specific programme to address climate change, assistance is provided to all tourism operators, who may encounter challenges.
He noted that the GTA had only recently been a key partner in the relocation of Arapaimas, – –a vital part of the aquatic ecosystem in Guyana’s rivers, particularly in the Essequibo and other major water systems like the Mazaruni.

The large fish play an important role in controlling populations of smaller fish species and maintaining the health of the freshwater environment. With the dry spell persisting and some waterways drying, the fish had to be relocated to deeper waters.

“We have looked at it (climate change) on a case-by-case basis to see its impacts and its effects on the tourism circuit,” Baksh explained
While the GTA currently plays a crucial role in advocating for tourism businesses by providing training and capacity building, plans to establish a more proactive response to climate change are being examined.
“I think it’s fundamental now given the effects of climate change which we have seen,” Baksh said.

In Nicholas’ case with the support of the GTA, he was able to rebuild several key infrastructures that make up his home and business. But now he is facing another challenge. The extreme dry seasons have brought with it new trials.

At Morai Morai, Nicholas offers visitors a unique experience, from weaving the palm, crafting a bow and arrow and making cassava bread. But these experiences are being threatened by the dry weather persisting. Nicholas has been finding it difficult to harvest crops, cassava in particular to supply his demands.

“But then now, it’s the dry weather, it’s hard for the plants to grow and the cassava is hard too. Remember cassava is a plant that stays in the earth, so if we have severe flood [or] when it’s dry it’s affected.”
Just a short distance away, Diana Damingo, another resident of Kootarnib is facing the same challenge.

“Everyone in the village we have small little gardens and all the cassava dries up, and the provision dried up, right now we nah get provision, all of them die out. This is our problem here, some of them are rotting,” Diana lamented.

Cassava is a root vegetable that has long been a vital staple crop, known for its nutritional value and adaptability, cassava provides a primary source of carbohydrates and in indigenous menus, is often prepared in various forms such as boiled, fried, baked or made into farine.

Despite its resilience, cassava is not immune to the effects of extreme weather conditions. The root crop is somewhat drought tolerant, but prolonged dry periods can hinder growth, leading to small yields and poor quality.
Diana who sometimes helps out at Morai Morai Ranch explained that these weather conditions are affecting most residents in the hinterland region, especially those who rely heavily on subsistence farming.
“So, it’s hard, but we are trying,” the woman shared.

But though uncertainty looms, efforts are being made to assist indigenous communities that are facing challenges during the dry season. At a recent outreach, Guyana’s Agriculture Minister, Zulfikar Mustapha met with several farmers from the Rupununi region.

It was during that meeting several farmers were able to register their concerns and several commitments were made to not only assist farmers with yielding better cassava but also improve soil testing capabilities as a long-term solution for expanded and diverse food production throughout the hinterland communities.

(“This story was published with the support of the Caribbean Climate Justice Journalism Fellowship, which is a joint venture of Climate Tracker and Open Society Foundations)