Adventure up the Mahaica River
6 Year old Chad looks on at our group (Daniel Haynes photo)
6 Year old Chad looks on at our group (Daniel Haynes photo)
Movie-like: Flock of birds flying over river (Daniel Haynes photo)
Movie-like: Flock of birds flying over river (Daniel Haynes photo)

When you’re in the Mahaica River, the only sounds you hear are the steady thrum of a speedboat engine, the chattering of monkeys and calls of birds. But as you progress up the

river, and the chattering is replaced by silence, the world suddenly feels like a smaller more peaceful space where only you and your thoughts exist.
I had no idea that this was what I would experience when I was part of the Guyana Tourism Authority’s (GTA) Reconnaissance trip to St. Cuthbert’s Mission by way of the Mahaica River a week ago.

The Journey
We started in Georgetown at the Ministry of Business, with a group of about 15 persons

Enrique and Raymond fishing on the river (Daniel Haynes photo)
Enrique and Raymond fishing on the river (Daniel Haynes photo)

inclusive of media personnel and different tour operators.
The trip was a reconnaissance trip, and the tour operators were there to see if there was any opportunity for the trip to St. Cuthbert through the Mahaica River to be arranged as a packaged tour.

“The purpose of this reconnaissance trip is for you the tour guides to check out the region and see if there is any possibility for tourism and a tour package to be offered from the area,” said GTA’s Senior Product Development Officer Kamrul Baksh.

For me it was going to be an adventure, one I could relish. What I didn’t know, however, was that it would be a trip of self-discovery and one where I would be teased by my tour group.

Dance troupe from St. Cuthbert’s Mission
Dance troupe from St. Cuthbert’s Mission

There were many Caribbean territories and some parts of Guyana I had the pleasure of visiting- Cayman Islands, Jamaica, Trinidad, St. Maarteen- to name a few. However the last

time I did any exploring in Guyana was years ago in my early teenage years. I’d travelled to Orinduik falls, spent a day on the Potaro, and a few days visiting the forts. Now I was going to travel the Mahaica River. Not as fancy as Kaieteur Falls but the truth remains that not many Guyanese in their life will travel any of Guyana’s rivers and that is saddening.
We arrived in Mahaica and drove down to the drop off point where we would begin our tour. I think for me that’s when the excitement started.

One of the group boats
One of the group boats

On the river
After treated to a short tassa drumming rendition by three of the community’s residents, we pushed off, and what would make a river trip more exciting? A little engine trouble to start. But soon enough we were off, and the excitement bubbling in my chest grew as there was no trace of the city life I was accustomed to. It was when the mobile phone signal cut off I knew we had truly begun the journey.

As we travelled, the first animal we saw was the kingfisher, darting in and out of the trees to pluck fish out the river.

The next bird I saw was our national bird the Canje Pheasant tucked in between the trees.
According to our tour guide Hamesh, “This region is actually a bird watching region and if you guys had come earlier we would have seen more birds and even a spectacled caiman.”
We also saw a howler monkey, who put on a show for us jumping from branch to branch

A rest shed away from civilization
A rest shed away from civilization

once he knew he was being watched. After the howler monkey was a flock of heron which seemed to be leading us to St Cuthbert’s Mission.

As the flock disappeared, we were truly left alone on the river, with nothing but the boats’ engines. But soon enough that sound drifted away and I could take in the scenery. It was in those moments that I truly felt at peace. I could sort my thoughts on what plagued me during the week, and as the refreshing breeze hit my face and the river flowed on underneath me, I felt disconnected from time. There wasn’t the constant unlocking of my cell phone but the unlocking of my mind and for the first time in a while I felt free.
You might think I’m being a bit dramatic but there truly was something magical about being there and I wasn’t the only one who thought so. As I looked at the other boats and could

Kamrul Baksh and “Hamesh”
Kamrul Baksh and “Hamesh”

make out faces, everyone seemed lost in thought and content with the moment.

St Cuthbert’s Mission
We knew we were almost at St. Cuthbert’s Mission when we met Enrique and Raymond- two friends fishing 5 miles from their village. The pair couldn’t have been more than seven years old but they looked as at home in their canoe as I did in the driver’s seat of my car.

It wasn’t more than half an hour before we got into the Mission (which is 53 miles up the Mahaica River) and began the trek up to the village centre- a journey which took us another 30 mins. By then it was lunch and after we met some of the village children who performed two dances for us. Apparently the group was formed three years ago (frankly some of the children looked like four) and were dancing together for some time.

My teasing would soon come after the dance, I got separated from the group and the moment I discovered that the group disappeared I sent out an S.O.S. It was the worst

6 Year old Chad looks on at our group (Daniel Haynes photo)
6 Year old Chad looks on at our group (Daniel Haynes photo)

decision I could make. The group returned and from there the teasing began. I heard it all – from being lost in the washroom, to panicking and calling the Guyana Defence Force (GDF). Had I been sensitive I would not have survived the rest of the day.
As my teasing continued, our tour of St. Cuthbert’s Mission continued; we saw the community and learned a bit about the mission. The mission is 242 square miles with 40 families. Once again the silence that surrounded us was the first thing I noticed. Most of us unwind with beers after work, or with music, but there is never a moment of absolute silence. St Cuthbert’s Mission had that silence.

Trip Drama
Of course no trip could be without some amount of drama and ours came when the tour bus got stuck coming through the sand to get us. Yet again I was the target of the jokes and in a spirited manner I was teased about being the cause of the incident.
“IS YOU the bus come to rescue make it get stick?” was all I heard until we were finally on our way again, this time to the Linden/Soesdyke Highway. Once again, if I were sensitive I would have pulled into a corner. But it was all good natured fun.
We were supposed to go to Linden but with all the time that elapsed we had to abandon the idea.

No trip could be complete without food and before coming back to town we stopped along the highway for food, drinks and all round laughter. This time I wasn’t the target since I found my voice and launched a comeback at my teasers- no one was safe. Not bad for the victim of almost the entire afternoon. However almost too quickly it was time to head back to town we returned to the bus to finish the trip.
The day had been a long one, yet I didn’t feel it and as we pulled back up at the Ministry of Business and I left the bus to head home, I couldn’t help feel that I had made new friends and had one of the best days in a long time.
Before leaving we all spoke about the next trip which would be to Linden so as to finally finish the full tour. If I’m asked I’d definitely be there, since it could certainly be made into a tour package. This time however, I won’t be the one to get separated and teased, I’ll be the one leading the charge.

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