MANY Caribbean intellectuals, with a feeling of resignation, have often commented that the Caribbean has never contributed anything to the world; that instead, it has received whatever culture it has—its food, clothing, and technology—from the Old World of Europe, Asia, and Africa.

However, this characterisation is not entirely accurate, as the Caribbean was the “inventor” and producer of rum, a drink that has spread across the world, much like whisky, the drink of Scotland, which is highly sought after and valued.

Rum is a by-product of cane sugar, the commodity for which the European Caribbean colonies were originally established. Rum has a history and mythology dating back to the 16th Century. In its earlier forms, it was an extremely potent alcohol, known as “Kill Devil”, and became the drink of pirates from Western European nations, mainly Holland, France, and the British Isles.

The exploits and robberies of these pirates were celebrated in poems and novels, and the pirate song “Fifteen men on the dead man’s chest, Yo! Ho! Ho! and a bottle of rum” was well known in the 18th Century. It was only in the 19th Century, when Western European nations developed well-equipped navies, that pirates were eliminated, and the seas became safe for legitimate trade and commerce. However, the mythology they created around rum has lingered, especially in the Caribbean islands.

From the 16th Century onwards, the uses of rum expanded; it came to be used in cooking, medicinally, as a disinfectant, and as a bacteria eliminator in products such as mouthwash. It also became a key ingredient in a variety of cocktails. At the same time, the quality of rum continued to improve, incorporating the techniques of modern science and the ancient methods of wine production.

Today, the rums produced by Demerara Distillers Limited (DDL) rank among the finest liquors in the world. This is evidenced by the fact that DDL’s rums consistently win gold medals at international rum festivals.

One of the main techniques borrowed from wine production is the process of ageing. Rums are aged in oak barrels. In the 19th and early 20th Centuries, rum production in Guyana was almost entirely dominated by Portuguese families who owned “rum shops”. These families, familiar with wine production from their homeland in the Mediterranean, applied their knowledge to crafting their own blends of rum. Each ‘rum shop’ developed its own unique blend, and from time to time, certain shops would gain a reputation for producing the most preferred rum. The oldest rum available in those days was aged for five years.

Towards the late 1950s and into the 1960s, Guyana was plagued by grave political discord and economic upheaval, leading to a push for nationalisation. Many members of the Portuguese community, who were largely involved in commerce and industry, felt insecure and emigrated, mostly to Canada. As a result, only two main rum producers survived—Bookers, which owned most of the sugar industry, and Demerara Distillers, which focused on rum production. D’Aguiar Bros, another significant producer, eventually transformed into Banks DIH, diversifying its operations beyond rum to include beer and biscuits.

Bookers, anticipating imminent nationalisation, ceased investing in its rum company. By the time the State acquired it, the company was on the verge of bankruptcy. This failing entity was entrusted to Dr. Yesu Persaud and his understudy, Komal Ram Samaroo, to manage. At the time, its collapse seemed inevitable. However, through sheer managerial genius, and with almost no capital injection, Yesu Persaud and Komal Samaroo were able to revive the company, transforming it into one of the world’s most successful rum enterprises.

It is important to highlight this history, as it is at risk of being forgotten. Furthermore, it directly relates to the significance of the ageing process in rum production. Aged rums develop a mellowness and distinctive flavour, and Demerara Distillers has been a pioneer in producing aged rums of 12 years and beyond; not just in Guyana and the Caribbean but globally.

The process of ageing rum is expensive. It requires oak barrels, which must be imported since oak grows only in colder climates. Skilled tradesmen known as “coopers” are needed to craft these barrels, ensuring they are of standard size and airtight. In the past, when many households relied on rainwater for drinking, large wooden vats were commonly used for storage. These vats were made from wallaba staves by vat makers, a widespread profession at the time. As modern water storage systems replaced vats, the trade of coopering disappeared. Today, DDL must train and employ coopers at high wages to sustain this craft.

The oak barrels used for ageing are stored in warehouses, with sections demarcated by year. As each batch of barrels ages, they are moved up to the next designated section. During the ageing process, some of the rum naturally evaporates; a phenomenon known as the “angel’s share”.

Over ten years, a barrel can lose up to 20% of its rum. This loss, coupled with the long-term investment required for ageing, contributes to the higher cost of aged rums compared to newly produced ones.

DDL originally had an ageing capacity of 30,000 barrels, but due to rising international demand for aged Demerara rums, the company has expanded its capacity to 130,000 barrels. This expansion required an investment of $730 million to construct an extended warehouse to meet future market needs.

Mr. Komal Samaroo, the Chairman and Managing Director of DDL, aptly described the reasoning behind this new investment:
“As the demand for premium aged rums continues to grow,”, he said, “this new facility ensures we continue to deliver our award-winning rums while upholding the rich heritage and craft that have made Demerara Rums a household name for rum connoisseurs globally. The warehouse represents another milestone in our journey to solidify Guyana’s position as a leader in the aged rum industry.”

Through strategic vision and innovation, Demerara Distillers Limited continues to reinforce its leadership in the global rum industry, ensuring that Guyana remains at the forefront of premium rum production.