–immerse yourself in the adventure: Take in the highs, as well as the lows
I’VE been fortunate to have had the opportunity to explore the many wonders of Guyana’s flora as well as its fauna, whether it’s trekking through the forested paths of the Mazaruni (Region Seven) or flying over the mines of the scenic Potaro (Region Eight).
But no journey has ever topped the drive from Georgetown to the Rupununi (Region Nine), arguably one of the most thrilling experiences one can ever hope to have, and get to bask in all the beauty that is Guyana.
I recently undertook the journey, venturing further into the deep south of Region Nine (Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo), where vast savannahs stretch languorously in the distance, and the skies play peek-a-boo between the mountains.
But before I delve further into the scenery, I must take you on the ride proper.
There are two ways of getting to the Deep South Rupununi: You can either fly over the savannahs, or choose the more daring route and go by vehicle.
And if you’re a lover of adventure like me, overland travel will leave you with a thrilling experience, and if you decide to plan a trip, grab a friend and tell them to bring a friend along.
After driving along the Soesdyke-Linden Highway, you’ll find yourself smack-dab in the mining town of Linden, which serves as a gateway of sorts to the hinterland regions of Guyana.
This is where the journey gets exciting!
Navigating through blankets of mist along the trail is just a teaser as to what lies ahead.
The drive is roughly about 12-16 hours long to get to the region, but these hours tend to pass by quickly as one navigates the terrain of the rustic Mabura Trail, especially if you’re taking the journey at night.
The sight of the towering trees that border the trail, is always a moment to savor, and if you’re lucky like me, trees are not the only things you’ll see. Often spotted sprinting across the trail are baby foxes, running from the sound of the vehicles.
MORAI MORAI: THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING!
The journey gets even more interesting after finally arriving in Lethem, the region’s central town. Then it’s on
to Katoonarib, where one can find the Morai Morai Ranch.
At Morai Morai, my colleagues and I were greeted warmly by Nicholas Cyril, the owner of the ranch, who shared little anecdotes about his homestead that he is now in the process of establishing as an experiential tourist attraction.
This unique experience immerses you into the traditions of Guyana’s Indigenous Peoples.
It’s the most authentic and edifying experience, as we were enraptured by customs that have been preserved for decades.
Over an open flame, we joined Diana, the cook at Morai Morai, who guided us through the intricacies of making cassava bread. Of course, we had to sample a taste!
The freshly-made staple was paired with Tuma Pot, a unique stew/broth made from either fish or deer, or just about any meat-kind one can get their hands on.
This is freshly brewed with a melee of spices and home-grown ingredients sourced from Nicholas’ nearby farm.
And to balance the equation, we drank some fresh fruit juice.
After lunch, we joined George, Nicholas’ cousin who demonstrated how to make a traditional bow and arrow.
Many of us looked on as he intricately carved the archery piece. While some of my colleagues opted to test it out, I opted to stay on the sidelines, and watch on.
I was able to sneak a little one-on-one chat with George, who shared his adventures of trekking through the forests of the North Rupununi and scouring the savannahs of the South to source materials.
FROM SUNSET TO SUNRISE: WELCOME TO WICHABAI RANCH
Just as I was soaking up the essence of Morai Morai, it was time to leave for the next adventure to Wichabai Ranch.
There, a thrilling escapade awaited.
We hiked up a mountain, which gave us a clear view of how truly breathtaking South Rupununi is.
My eyes scanned across the sunset-drenched vista, drinking in every little detail of the plains. As the sun tucked away behind the mountain ranges, we were carefully guided by Erin, the owner of Wichabai Ranch.
Referencing her background in geology, she transported us to a time beyond the Tectonic Plates.
We concluded the day feeding the capybaras and unwinding under the dimly-lit skies.
But that wasn’t the only highlight of our stay at Wichabai, as the next morning, we awoke to the hues of the sunrise that penetrated the open cabins and tents.
The sunrise unfolded like a masterpiece, painting the sky in hues of gold, pink, and lavender. As the first light touched the horizon, the world seemed to pause in awe.
The cool morning air carried the earthy scent of grass, and the promise of a new adventurous day.
Our time at Wichabai Ranch came to end after a quick trek through the habitats of some of the South Rupununi’s giants.