FOOD and culture are interwoven. Traditional spices, recipes and food preparation techniques were passed down from generation to generation. This is true for cultures across the world.

The processes of preparing, serving and sharing certain foods and drink might appear simple, but could be complex when considering the social and cultural significance of these foods.

For Guyana, which is a melting pot of cultures, food plays a vital role in preserving culture across generations. The Africans, one of Guyana’s ethnic groups, make up a big part of the country’s culinary arts.

While attempts were made by colonising powers to strip the enslaved Africans of their sense of identity during slavery, there was a spirit of resilience among Africans and African descendants to preserve remnants of culture and tradition. The art and science of food preparation is one such preserved remnant.

African cuisine, as we know it in the West Indies, is a combination of locally available fruits, cereal grains and vegetables, and milk and meat products. In some parts of the African continent, the traditional diet largely includes milk, curd and wheat products.

Africa is not, however, a single space nor a single culture. Comprised of more than 50 countries and many smaller ethnic groups, the continent’s diverse makeup is reflected in the many different eating and drinking habits, dishes, and preparation techniques.

In Central Africa, for example, the basic ingredients in most dishes are plantain, cassava, chili, peppers and an array of vegetables and ground spices.

In Guyana, our understanding of African dishes incorporates all of these ingredients, with a modern twist and Caribbean flare, making use of fruits and vegetables that are readily available in the South American county.

These foods include Metemgee, which is a soup-like dish with ground provisions, coconut milk and large dumplings, eaten with fried fish or chicken; Conkie, a sweet cornmeal-based treat cooked by steaming the cornmeal in banana leaves; and pumpkin and ‘Foo Foo’, which is a dough made from boiled and mashed ground provision.

These dishes have become a staple in African-descended households on Sundays, mostly, but especially during emancipation celebration.

RECIPE GUIDE:
Metemgee (Metagee)
Ingredients:
• 1 dry coconut
• Three-quarter pound of mixed meat
• Approximately one pound of fried fish or salted fish
• One pound of cassava
• One pound of plantain (you can choose whether green, ripe or ‘turning’)
• One pound of eddoes, yam or dasheen
• One large onion — cut into rings
• A half-pound of ochro (okra)
• Dumplings (optional)

Preparation:
• Cover the mixed meat with water and boil for half an hour. Put salt-fish to soak in water; if using fresh fish, this may be fried or placed on top of vegetables about 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time
• Grate the coconut, pour one pint of water over, squeeze well and strain to extract the coconut milk. Pour over the meat
• Peel the vegetables, then put the meat and vegetables to boil in the coconut milk. Cook until almost tender
• Put the salt fish, with the skin and bones removed, or fresh fish or fried fish on top of vegetables. Add the onion and ochro.
• Cook until the coconut milk is almost absorbed
• If dumplings are used, they should be added about eight minutes before the vegetables are ready

‘FOO FOO’
Ingredients:
• Two pounds of hard yams
• One pound of cassava
Preparation:
• Wash, peel and cook vegetables in boiling water
• When cooked, do not remove from boiling water or vegetables will become cold and unmanageable
• Remove string from cassava; take cassava from water and pound first before adding yam to mortar
• Pound to a fine texture until thoroughly mixed
• Use some of the same warm water for dipping the mortar stick and for adding to the ‘foo foo’ to bring to the right consistency
• Dip a metal spoon in clean warm water and remove ‘foo foo’ in balls from the mortar. Cover and keep warm. Serve.

CONKIE
Ingredients:
• One coconut
• One pound of pumpkin
• One pound of cornmeal
• One ounce of lard
• One ounce of margarine
• One teaspoon of salt
• Sugar to taste
• Four ounces of dried fruits
• One teaspoon of black pepper
• Banana leaves for wrapping

Preparation:
• Grate the coconut and pumpkin
• Add all other ingredients
• Stir in enough water to make a mixture of dropping consistency
• Wipe banana leaves and heat to make pliable
• Cut into pieces of approximately eight inches squared; wrap around filling and tie with twine
• Place in boiling water and boil for 20-30 minutes.