JOURNEY through the Canje River and you will stumble on Baracara, a historically-significant small community also known as ‘Wel te Vreeden’ or ‘New Ground Village’ which was founded as a Maroon community.

Our team journeyed to New Amsterdam, the municipal centre of the ancient county, Berbice. As we approached the Canje Bridge, one of two stretching across the river its named after, the guide pointed us to a small street just before we reached the bridge.

We took the bait. The street led us to an area under the bridge where a speed boat captain was waiting to chaperone us through the river.
We embarked the boat and began our 140-miles journey through the river as the rain poured down on our exposed wooden vessel.
Unfazed by the drizzle, our spirits remained high.

The sun’s rays finally lounged from behind the clouds and we found ourselves gazing upon frightened flock of Canje Pheasants, one of Guyana’s national prides, startled by the aggressive noise of the diesel-powered boat engine.

The only other glimpse I’ve had of our national bird was in photos. To see its majestic wings as they span the foliage was an honour.
Its feathers are a reddish-brown, streaked with green. Its belly was a pale brown. The feathers on its shoulder and sides are edged with creamy-white.

Its most majestic feature, however, are the crest of long feathers that sit on its head like a crown.
While the birds tried their best to stay hidden, I was able to capture a few moments of their leap and soar from the trees shading the river banks.
After what felt like three hours, we arrived at our destination, Baracara. Marshall Thompson, the Chairman of the Community Development Council (CDC) at Baracara, greeted us as we disembarked.

We had a ‘gyaff’ with Marshall who shared a brief history of his home village. Baracara is the only Maroon village in Guyana.
Sharing the stories told to him by his elders, he disclosed that in the early 19th century, a group of escaped enslaved Africans settled in Baracara, occupying both the east and west banks of the river.

The economy of the village is based on subsistence farming and logging. The village has a health centre and a primary school, but no secondary school. Most children leave the community for secondary school once they’ve completed their primary education.
Life in Baracara, Thompson said, is ‘quiet and simple’.

With a small population of just over 100 households, the residents of Baracara considered themselves to be one big family, supporting each other in their everyday joys and sorrows.

The people of Baracara live simple lives and still rely on the teachings and traditions passed down to them by their Maroon ancestors.
After a heart-warming conversation with Mr Thompson, it was time for me to depart and return to the life I left behind in the city.

But before I said my final goodbyes, I made sure to snag a few goodies, some freshly picked awara, which I must admit were sweeter than any I’ve ever had.