OUR experiences continue to vary as we explore the many villages around Guyana and become absorbed in their mystical tales and alluring infrastructure, experience the fascinating interaction of their inhabitants and listen to the rabble of these various people.

We have been greeted with jovial hospitality, amazing village camaraderie, amusing village gossip and interesting tales of the many challenges that were either faced and conquered, or avoided and lamented by the residents.
This week we were totally enthralled by the high degree of serenity and dignity enjoyed by the people of Clonbrook and the positive manner in which they embraced the dawn of modernity and development.

Where is Clonbrook?
Clonbrook is situated in the densely populated Region 4(Demerara/Mahaica) community of Guyana. Located along the East Coast Highway about 20 miles from Georgetown and about eight miles from Mahaica, the village is bordered to the west by Bee Hive and to the east by Ann’s Grove. With a population of approximately 3,000 residents who, historically, were almost 100% Indo-Guyanese, internal migration has today changed Clonbrook’s population with a substantial influx of Afro-Guyanese residents.

Consequently, many new houses have been constructed near the public road, the East Coast Highway, in a sort of ethnic mix wherein some sections have a majority African population whilst other sections have a predominantly East Indian population. Nevertheless, this village is famous for its friendly people, and cases of racial disturbance are practically non-existent.
Residents of the front part of Clonbrook (this was not asked of the back part of Clonbrook) say they enjoy the serenity of the village; and having seen much development over the years, they would not migrate from the area.

The Arrival

In the early 1980s, I had an ample opportunity to savour the mysteries of this village, since I was employed as a police officer at the Clonbrook Outpost for over nine months and actually resided in the neighbouring village of Ann’s Grove. During that time the village was quite an appealing alcove that featured scattered houses, wide-open lush pastures, and a health centre. On our recent trip to Clonbrook, I was just mystified at the positive changes that have since occurred in the village.

Boarding a minibus from the city, I sat back and began to browse through the newspapers with every intention of enjoying that freshness and peculiar atmosphere of the rustic breeze, as usual.

My goodness! The driver of the minibus should definitely be given a full-time job at one of the international race tracks in the USA and should certainly be taken off the Guyanese roads in the interest of public safety.
Readers, it felt as though my heart had plummetted to the very depths of my being as this driver swerved dangerously in and out of vehicles, mouthing that he had a ‘monetary target’ to make before 17:00 hours that day. In many cases, he ground hard on the brakes and came within inches of hitting other vehicles, causing them to pull out of his roving path with a screech of tyres. This, of course, evoked the anger of many other drivers and it brought a string of stomach churning obscenities from their lips, which certainly made no impression on our driver, who responded to their verbal attacks with very ‘raw and suggestive’ finger language that made my skin crawl.
When I disembarked that ‘vehicle from hell’ I breathed a sigh of relief, vowing that I would never enter that bus again. And imagine the driver had the gall to enquire if I had enjoyed the ride!!! I just refused to answer him, for fear of saying something very repulsive.

I wasted no time in starting my exploration and interviews, and everyone was just cheery and ready to talk. I just marvelled at the changes in the village, and noted that almost all of the open pastures were now filled with posh buildings, all arranged in a very neat and dignified manner.
In years gone by, there was an old housing scheme there, but that was now replaced by an attractive array of buildings, most of which were in tip-top shape.

Clonbrook is now a beautiful settlement of impressive buildings, twisting and turning access roads and pathways and a showcase of glitzy ambience.
Oh dear! I will never forget the experience of exploring Clonbrook for years to come. I was just all wrapped up and engulfed in its serenity and it was definitely difficult for me to leave when my task had been completed.
Lush, green coconut palms swayed luxuriously in the fresh wind rolling in from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, creating an atmosphere that lured you to inhale great gulps of this fresh wind, so unlike that in Georgetown.
As we moved around the village there was just this very hushed simplicity about it and the starry eyed smiles of residents just made you feel welcome and definitely at home. All around there were thriving kitchen gardens and in many yards we could see patches of sugar cane just bursting with sweet juice, waiting to be harvested.

Juice laden sour sops swung lazily in the wind from tall trees and green tall grass moving like snakes as the wind rustled them, was a sight that played havoc with the ‘nature side of our senses.’
Cows and goats enjoyed the juicy grass and stopped from their morning feasts to gaze at us with rolling eyes as if they were demanding what we were doing on their premises. Curvy mothers and daughters sat around at the many fruit and vegetable stalls chatting and many times peals of girlish laughter rang out as they enjoyed the juicy village gossips.
A few males were riding around on bicycles getting groceries for the kitchen and police officers relaxed at the Police Outpost, maybe waiting for reports which did not seem forthcoming in a village that enjoyed such peace and tranquility.

And folks, I must agree that all seemed to be well with villagers, judging from the manner in which they were strutting amicably on well paved access streets and pathways.

A Few Minor Challenges
We stopped to speak with a vegetable and ground provision vendor of five years, Marcelle Collins and she was very excited that she was amongst the target of our visit and discussions.

And Mrs. Collins who seemed at peace with herself noted that their village was one of the best and was a very peaceful and serene location.
“I have been living here for ‘donkey years’ and I don’t really have anything to complain about. This village is very peaceful and beautiful and I would not trade it for another.

Nothing is really perfect in life and like any other location there are still a few things that are needed to be done. But that aside, Clonbrook is the village I would spend the remainder of my life in.”
According to Collins most of the access roads in Clonbrook are in good condition and villagers enjoy really good potable water at all times. However, she explained that the people residing south of the village experience intermittent low water pressure. As a result they have to ensure that their water containers are filled before the pressure goes or dwindle.
Collins and a few other mothers are also very concerned about the state of the Clonbrook Nursery School compound which they claim is in need of a little sprucing up. According to the ladies, work needs to be done to the area to ensure it is made higher to prevent flooding during heavy rainfall.
The women are not too satisfied with the manner in which the NDC body responsible for sanitation is operating in the village. Just a few months ago

according to residents, the entity installed a few garbage containers at strategic points around the village and this was welcomed by all concerned.
However, villagers said that the containers are left to overflow with refuse for over two weeks sometimes before NDC employees turn up to empty them. As a result the dogs and other animals would seek food from the containers, dragging the garbage in and around the village.
Villagers indicated that in some areas they have to engage in self-help initiatives and clean the drains around their homes to ensure that their yards are not flooded in the event of heavy rainfall.
Villagers are also calling on the relevant authorities to fix their playfield since it is now in a ‘run down state.’
The Clonbrook Playfield is rapidly deteriorating and has now become an ideal location for cattle, sheep and goats to have their fill of grass

on a daily basis. As a result of the continuous trampling by the animals, the ground cannot be used as a leisure time facility for villagers.

Education
Clonbrook has two schools, a nursery and primary schools (junior high) but there is a secondary school in the neighboring village of Ann’s Grove. However, it is said that during the 1960s and 1970s many residents did not take their education seriously, resulting in a literacy rate of only 84%, below the national average of 98%.

But interviews with teachers at the Ann’s Grove Secondary School revealed that after the 1970s era the school has improved greatly in the field of academics and has been recording better passes and grades in almost all of their subject areas.

Leisure Time Activities

One would want to wonder quite naturally what inhabitants of such a serene and quiet village would do during their leisure time.

And Mrs. Collins did not hesitate to plunge into her gleeful tale of entertainment around that village. There is actually only one nightclub in Clonbrook and the action really kicks up on weekends. However, villagers over the years have come up with attractive modes of entertaining themselves at practically anytime they wish to.
With a dreamy smile and an exciting sparkle in her eyes, Collins spoke with great gusto of their skills at creating entertainment ventures for villagers.
“Boy, in this village there is only one nightclub and things will only kick up there on weekends. But that does not stop the Clonbrook people from having entertainment just whenever we please. It has become a custom over the years for us to host lavish birthday, weddings and engagement ceremonies at our homes.”
“Man look… You should come to one of these events sir. The food and drinks are bountiful and you should hear how the people would blast their music and dance their lives away. Of course some derogatory characters would get in to fights when they drink up the free rum. But the police station is just nearby and we would promptly hand them over to the authorities.”
Added to that villagers will come out in huge numbers for Emancipation (August) celebrations and at this time they will be several days of sporting and reveling in almost every home in the village.
Of course some villagers would step out of the village to party in nearby Ann’s Grove where there are a larger number of nightspots that allows for all week reveling and relaxation. Some would even venture into the city of Georgetown if they desire the more sophisticated side of things.
The most prominent activities are cricket, football, basketball, fishing, swimming, cycling, and “bush cooking” which is still a hit amongst residents after many years.

Livelihood
It appears as if most of the residents are self-employed in one way or the other and it was a very moving spectacle to watch them engaged in their occupational choice.

As we walked through the village we saw some men fussing with their chickens that were cackling loudly at their intrusion. These were of course those that decided to earn a living as poultry farmers.
Then there were the housewives that could be seen tending to customers in the many vegetable, groceries and fruit stalls that have sprung up around the village. Of course there are at least four well established confectionary and fast food locations so residents have the choice of enjoying home cooked food or eating in ‘breezy splendour’ at the fast food shop of their choice.
Many have chosen farming and they would do this on both small and large scales along the railway embankment and in the back lands surrounding Clonbrook and neighbouring Ann’s Grove. Some persons prefer to tend to their small kitchen gardens in their yards; ensuring fresh vegetables, spices and peppers are just within their hand reach for the morning, midday, or evening delicacies.
A few males in the village are engaged in ‘pork-knocking’ in the hinterland regions and of course these are the residents who prefer a ‘bigger dollar’ or just like to have their earnings in a lump sum.

A Crime Free Village
Villagers did not hesitate to declare that their village is almost crime free, noting that this was one of the factors that allowed them to exist and bask in the glory of such peace and quiet.

Housewife, Shirley Thom related that many years ago they suffered a few losses from vagrants and other sordid characters would have targeted the village stealing chickens and other small animals.
She noted that the police at Clonbrook staged several campaigns and has rid the village of this menace. Today they enjoy great peace and quiet that they have become the very envy of surrounding villages.
But before all this there were a few incidents which seemed to have left their imprints on the minds and memories of villagers and Ms. Thom did not mind shedding light on at least two incidents.
As related by Ms. Thom, one event she would never forget was the one involving a female in the village who was said to be a ‘mad woman’ as she was commonly called. This incident occurred in September 2011 and surrounded the slitting of a man’s throat by the accused female.
According to Thom, it is believed that the woman attacked Sheriff Balmacoon while he was making his way home under the heavy influence of alcohol.
There is speculation that Balmacoon, called ‘Boutam’ who was known to the woman, might have triggered it by engaging the woman, who villagers said was a frequent sight in the village. There is also a rumour that at least one eyewitness said that she had peered out from her window just in time to see the woman chop Balmacoon on his neck.
The attacker was assessed by psychiatrist to determine if she is of unsound mind and according to villagers no relative of the woman came forward, despite several checks at addresses she has reportedly given to investigators.
There are reports that a male neighbour close by, minutes after the attack, tried to apprehend the woman but backed off when she displayed a violent temper.
Then there was the case in June 2012 where an eleven-year-old female reportedly fled from her Bee Hive home. The student was said to be a pupil at the Clonbrook Primary School.
Also Thom for some reason became too emotional on the subject, but she however let on that relatives of the young girl detailed receiving a telephone call stating that Devika Seelall was spotted at Number 52 village, Corentyne, Berbice, at one point, but she quickly entered a passing minibus and left the village.
Although Thom seemed not to be able to ascertain whether the young girl had returned home, she however emphasised that when youths leave their home proper investigations should be done to ascertain whether issues revolving in the home would have prompted such action.

Transportation
One can travel to Clonbrook using the #44, #50 buses or by private taxis. Almost 90% of the roads in the area are vehicle and foot accessible. However folks there still use the traditional bicycle and even horse drawn carts as modes of transport.

Religion
The major religions in the village are Hinduism, Christianity and Islam and while some persons worship at temples, mosques and other churches outside the village, a large number attend the very large and attractive Anglican Church built not so long ago in the nearby village of Ann’s Grove.

Conclusion
Some may think that it takes towering skyscrapers, majestic cathedrals, posh and state-of-the-art mansions to impress and leave a lasting impression. This may be true, but only for a certain percentage of the world’s population.
If you prefer the softer side of things, quiet and peaceful existence, a fusion of the old world aura and modern beauty, or just content to watch the mesmerising forces of Mother Nature unfold before you.
Then I urge you to spend a weekend at Clonbrook.
Soak up the fresh smoothness of its naturally flowing ponds, trenches and canals. Pick and savour the scent of wild flowers from its open, beckoning green pastures. Chase after pond flies in the open fields, or just lie under one of the shady tress and enjoy a good book while sipping lime juice or fresh lemonade.
Whatever you do, make sure you visit Clonbrook where the tranquility and serenity will astound you.

(By Alex Wayne)