It’s always such a pleasure to be exploring the very far off villages on the lower coastal plain of Guyana, and my reason for saying so is that these villages come with a certain refreshing solitude and pleasantry that is far more entertaining that the customary bustle, and fuss one may find in the city of Georgetown.

While one may be drawn to the city and its environs for its extensive commercial and economic opportunities, the quieter at heart will be lured to the countryside with the assurance that they can bask in the exciting atmosphere of the tropics, as they enjoy the jovial banter, rich camaraderie, and of course the abundant avenues for pleasant recreation that are in many cases associated with the countryside.

Well here I was yet in this very pretty village called Seafield (#42 Village) on the West Coast of Berbice and judging from the visible stream of activity here, I just knew that the experience would be worth reliving anytime.
Let me be honest about the pleasant and vibrant awakening I received when I visited this small but very impressive village.
I was well stirred up by the almost mesmerising manner in which the houses were all clustered together, beautifully accentuated by abundant fruit trees, and ‘flower plants’ blooming in picturesque glory in many yards.
In some yards, small kitchen gardens thrived under the lusty sunlight as plants welcomed precious water filtering to their roots through the rich, black ‘country soil’, as mothers happily saturated them with the life-saving liquid from water cans.
Youths dashed after each other noisily through the alleyways, while others were more contented to engage themselves in highly competitive games of hop-scotch or marbles.
In the few yards that featured makeshift stalls, mothers and even husbands busied themselves with setting out groceries, vegetables and ground provisions, intent on making a quick honest dollar.
As is customary with these villages, cows grazed lazily in wide open fields and young lambs chased after their mothers, bleating noisily in their special ‘sheep language’ as they jostled the moms roughly, trying to get their fill of warm breast milk.
Seafield falls under the administrative division of Region 5 (Mahaica/Berbice), in with an average elevation of one metre above sea level.
As history would suggest, Seafield can have low impact earthquakes (on average one every 50 years), with occurrences at 5 on the Richter scale. When an earthquake occurs, it may be felt indoors by many people,

outdoors by a few people during the day. At night, some people may be awakened. There is a low occurrence of periods with extreme drought. Flooding risk in this village is said to be low.
The landscape is mostly covered with closed to open broad-leaved evergreen or semi-deciduous forest. The climate is classified as a tropical wet (no dry season) with a tropical moist forest bio-zone. The soil in some areas is said to be high in acrisols, alisols, plinthosols, acid soil with clay-enriched lower horizon and low saturation of bases.

With a population of close to one thousand residents this village is located at just over 68 miles from Georgetown.

Touching down….

I was expecting the customary hustle and bustle of inhabitants, noisy streets, screaming children and raucous males ‘taking a tupps’ in the rum shops and was in no way prepared for the intensely pleasant calm and tranquillity that seemed to engulf me the moment I stepped out of the minibus and into the dusty but very tidy main road.
As the cool and refreshing wind blew in from the Atlantic Ocean I marvelled at the soft swaying of coconut palms which almost seemed to move with a strangely sweet, rhythmic grace that gave me a strange tingle. Such a riveting picture of Mother Nature at work and this dazzling spectacle seemed to be even mirrored in the flashing eyes, and mischievous smiles of every villager I met and spoke with.
Upon my approach and a brief explanation on the reason for visiting an elderly woman (though camera shy) gurgled excitedly: “I does read the Chronicle every Sunday and ah de wandering when yall coming tuh Seafield. Eh eh like ya, all de fuget we or wha sir?” As she led me to a village elder, 75 year-old

Esther Fredericks, she was gleefully shouting to friends and associates the reason for my visit and the news spread like wild fire.
So at ‘every nook and cranny’ in the village I was greeted with deep respect and persons went out of their way to help in one way or another. The food vendors were falling over themselves to ensure I sampled their black and white pudding, still steaming sugar cakes and insisted that I devour a heaping plate of well made ‘country poulori.’
There were a few persons sitting by the roadside or enjoying some ‘swank’ (drink made from limes) while others on their front steps or verandahs seemed so content with life that I truly envied their seemingly solace and natural comfort.

Seafield is nestled cosily between the attractive villages of Rising Sun to the east and # 41 Village to the west.
Seafield, like many other villages in Berbice, has rich historical connections and as history would dictate was actually one of the portioned lands or settlements sold to Africans after slavery was abolished.

Interacting with villagers

Among the many persons who were more than ready to interact with the Chronicle Carol Smith, a teacher who teaches at a secondary school some three villages away.
The very jovial woman indicated that unemployment was a major setback for the village, since some students who would have written the CXC examinations remain at home, or wandered in the streets as they desperately await responses from places to which they had applied for jobs. She noted that it was just a few that were actually able to relocate to the city and obtain good jobs since they often cannot afford the expenses of housing, and other city responsibilities, once they relocate.
Ms. Smith noted that because of this reason there are several intelligent youths remaining in the village, deeply frustrated by the problem of unemployment. She added that all the schools would have been already filled with teachers thus making it impossible for some qualified school leavers to

access jobs there.
Inadequate recreational opportunities were also another issue that really peeved Ms. Smith. “Seafield is in dire need of adequate recreational facilities for the youths, and though a gentleman here is upgrading our playfield, we would certainly welcome more sporting facilities from other donors. We also definitely need variety where our recreational opportunities are concerned.”
She declared that there is need for corporate and government intervention, emphasising that their village over the years has been champions in the circle tennis arena. She said over the years this game has disappeared almost entirely from the village due to lack of funds to provide gears, or unavailability of incentives for players.

Housewife, Princess Walters had a much horrifying tale to tell. She related that the village is targeted by outsiders who come in the quiet of the night to throw garbage in sections of the village.
“These people are just terrible and heartless. Persons who operate businesses and other individuals come in the still of the night when we are sleeping and sometimes dump garbage on our street corners or in open fields. Just last week the boys chased a truck driver, who attempted to dump a whole truck load of garbage in a vacant lot.”
Several villagers are calling for their own Health Centre since they have to travel to the nearby Bushlot Health Centre or Fort Wellington Hospital which also has to accommodate villagers from Hopetown and Bushlot itself and other areas.
Sharon Thomas who spoke to us from an open window on the bottom flat of her two-storeyed home explained that she was home alone with her 15-year-old daughter while her common-law husband ‘Brandon’ was out plying his trade as a bus driver in and outside the village.
She noted however that while his profession can be tedious and very competitive at times, it however brings in a sizeable daily dollar that somehow manages to take care of their needs in the home.
“Everybady does do either wan jab or anotha in Seafield. Because everybody have to survive somehow or the otha. Me husband does go out deh everyday fuh mek ends meet, and some days he does comeback with almost nothing because is plenty bus wukking all ovah. But we does be thankful and try fuh mek ends meet regardless ah de

situation”.
According to Ms. Thomas, who has been residing in the village for over 25 years, it was indeed a very beautiful and peaceful location where residents live in harmony and great love for each other.
Villagers are also requesting street lights for safety while farmers cultivating rice and cash crops in the back lands are complaining that the dams are intolerable during the rainy season, making it almost impossible to transport their cultivated crops when its harvest time.
But in some sections of the village residents are lauding the fact that the relevant authorities have begun work on a few dams. Presently works are still continuing on the playfield in the village by a public spirited resident who has recently began making great strides in the areas of sports and entertainment.
Some persons complained that they are unable to garner proper prices for their poultry products when they sell to wholesale buyers, who many times attempt to give them ‘next to nothing’ for their produce. They said that the constraints of transporting such items to the city to net better sales are too expensive and would require proper storage containers (refrigerators etc.)
Some persons living close to the back land areas related that when there are torrential downpours, their yards would flood and snakes and alligators would crawl in.
Villagers are requesting that a bridge be built on the sea dam to grant proper access to the sea beach which is divided from the village by waterways.
Seafield seems lacking in terms of apparent business potential as can be judged from its distinct infrastructure, but villagers are certainly not missing out on anything in particular since they can simply take a bus to the not so distant Bushlot which serves as an ‘economic hub’ that can ultimately satisfy their entertainment, relaxation, social and of course economic needs at any one time. They can also grab a few supplies at the Maj & Family Grocery Store whenever they seem please.

Seafield of Today

Today Seafield is quite a quaint and impressive village that is still trying its best to run parallel with the changes associated with modernisation.
New and in many case posh houses have been built and the village is now a starling combination of somewhat classic buildings, sprawling majestic pastures that projects a refreshing spectacle as cattle, goats and sheep grazed contently, munching noisily on the juicy looking grass and shrubs.
The sight of men on horses chasing cows down a few dams brought a vivid reminder that this was a location where poultry farming and cattle rearing at one time brought in vibrant incomes for many residents.
The main road is in perfect shape and the canals are reasonably maintained. Residents raved that there is hardly any challenge in the village, save for the a few dams which become intolerable during inclement weather.
Residents enjoy continuous electricity, a constant supply of potable water, and they ensure their village is kept clean through self-help initiatives and burning of garbage and refuse.
Farming would have dwindled in its intensity and this is so because of the ‘salty content’ that is now present in the soil and damages crops instead of causing them to flourish as expected.
A group of men folks lauded the efforts of Minister Jajraj who they said is intervening in the area of them acquiring land plots.

Entertainment

The village is seized in the clutches of an ‘entertainment shutdown’ as dictated by some residents, and as such folks are forced to remain in the confines of their homes and watch television, or enjoy drinks with friends and neighbours.
In times gone by Seafield was one of the more popular ‘entertainment hubs’ on the West Coast of Demerara since it was home to the very popular ‘Leg Trap Disco’. In that era massive masses congregated there on weekends for wild revelling as they enjoyed the many concept parties hosted there.
With the hotspot now gone villagers either anticipates birthday or wedding celebrations, while some may venture to other villages like Belladrum and Rosignol for exclusive entertainment.

Religion

Most of the residents in this village are Christians and would normally worship at three major churches in the village. These are the Seventh Day Adventist, the Christ Lutheran and the New Apostolic Churches. That aside, a few would keep church sessions under their houses, while the mere sprinkling of Muslims would normally worship outside the village.

`The Seafeild awakening

The village awakes to the golden streams of sunlight, which soon after sees children tumbling out in their yards, sleepily rubbing their eyes, or grumbling under their breaths as mothers loudly admonishes them to have their morning chores done.
By the time the sun is fully up children begin to spill into the streets some with parents in supervision as they make their way to the primary school, or to other schools outside of the village. The few small shops are open by now, desperately trying to net morning sales, as some mothers thread into their kitchen gardens for fresh vegetables, or seasonings for their meat kind.
Vehicles begin to traverse the streets even as pedestrians began to trek along the many alleyways and side streets, intent on getting busy errands completed.
The few larger shops soon open their doors and windows to get garner daily sales and a few snack vendors put out their trays of biscuits and confectionaries, as they ready to ‘bellow’ their prices and bargain arrangements.
As the sunlight creeps over fully over the gold crusted morning crowds, the village burst into a tingling fusion of merry laughter, happy voices and the rumbling of vehicles as they chug their way along the main road.
By now the golden sun is rising steadily above the horizon casting a jewelled dazzle on rooftops and the metal frame of steel fences. Soon after, the many small groceries that have sprung up are opened as vendors attempt to attract the eyes of early buyers.
With streets now filled with pedestrians, riders and drivers, conversations with a few grown men revealed that while the village can be sometimes described as ‘a hub of bustling activity’, there is still room for the introduction of some more ‘glitz and glamour’.
During the midway, the street is mostly dismal, it comes alive in the afternoons and early mornings with the boisterous chatters of students as they hurry to and from school.

Seafeild Village in days of old

According to village elder Clarence Adams this village in days gone by was just a cluster of somewhat shabby houses several years after the abolition of slavery. He said that in many cases the houses were far apart so the present camaraderie and jovial interaction of residents was not present then because of the distance each house stood apart.
Streets were not paved and residents depended on the few stand pipes in the village for their water supply. Some persons in those days used trench water which they boiled before drinking.
He reminisced on the days when there would be fiery disagreements at the pipes over whose turn it was to dip water and in some cases there would be pulling of hair and scratching of faces to obtain the precious liquid.
“It was always a pleasure to draw water when the ladies of the village came out. They would gather around with dresses hugging their hips, with hands on their waists, feet tapping impatiently if someone was wasting the water or taking too long to fill their containers. Many times heated arguments broke out and in some cases the ladies were locked in battle much to the delight of those standing by. Often it was a good tussle and wallowing in the mud before they were separated by men folks who would secretly enjoy the fights to a point before separating them.”
In those days, agriculture was the main source of support for some families and many persons farmed in the back land or maintained a kitchen garden at home. The dams leading to the back land were okay during suns shine but became almost impassable during the rainy weather.
Ms. Small said that entertainment in those days would include beating drums around large bond fires, and engaging in wild dancing abandon as villagers south to maintain their African culture. She said that villagers eagerly anticipated the coming of weddings or birthdays since this heralded great festivity and celebration. Most villagers loved the ‘Que Que’ sessions before weddings since they could gyrate and unleashed their ‘forbidden sides’ as they consumed alcohol, metagee, cow face souse, black pudding and other delicacies.
Drainage was not as good as it is today and some areas experienced flooding according to Ms. Small.
Many spent their hard earned dollars and did work on the swampy lands, building it to perfection to accommodate houses, shops and other structures.
Man-made streets and pathways soon began to appear and families could be seen toiling acidulously in the broiling sun to build their paths and alleyways leading to their respective homes.

Employment

This village it seemed was not affected by unemployment since its inhabitants were either working in other areas or gainfully employed as shop owners, farmers, or mini-bus drivers.
It was a pleasurable sight to watch mothers watering young vegetable plants as they kids trailed after them, trying to be of some assistance in one way or the other. In some homes, mothers were busy cooking up a spree and the succulent aroma of polouri, egg balls, dhal puri, and fried chicken wafted into the air. These items will be displayed in tidy looking little glass cases later in the afternoon for sale to villagers and school children as they trekked home to their various houses.
And some seemed to be making quite a fortune on the sale of custard blocks, icicles, cubed ice, and cool down (local fruit juice in plastic bags). I almost giggled out loud at the amusing sight of little boys attempting to lick the apparently delicious trails that ran down their wrists and even elbows as the custard block melted in the sun.
This village is simply adorable, and the way in which resident attempt to meet their needs through self-orchestrated means is truly amazing.
However a few youths complained that they are unable to obtain jobs inside the village since there is actually no scope for ‘qualified employment’ there. Some said positions in administrative office close by were already filled, forcing them to seek work in the city where the constraints of accommodation and bills poses a major problem.

Conclusion

Despite its apparent lack of economic opportunities, Seafeild however boasts a rare ‘yester-year allure’ that is certainly stirring and refreshing to the soul.
Its beauty lies in the rich, lush greenery, its sandy dams, bubbling waterways and jolly banter of its seemingly happy people. Take a trip there and soak up the relaxing ambience of the countryside…

(By Alex Wayne)