By Michelle Gonsalves

BREASTS are unique: They come in all shapes and sizes. In fact, even if you have the same ‘bra’ size as a friend, you may not both be able to wear the same ‘bra’. This is because, although two women may measure to the same ‘bra’ size, one woman’s breasts may be higher-set on her rib cage, or spaced farther apart; or the other woman could have a wider back. 

Do you know the apex of your breasts should fall half way between your elbow and shoulder? Therefore, it is important to understand the unique variations of your shape, and learn what ‘bra’ styles and ‘bra’ features work best for you. There is a common statistic, quoted in many magazines and on many websites, that two in three women are wearing the wrong ‘bra’ size. According to “How to choose the right bra”, an article by Kriti Saraswat on India.com, the number is 80%.
There is a lack of empirical evidence, but it would not be far off base to venture that in Guyana, there is probably a similarly high number of women who wear ill-fitting ‘bras’, as most women buy off-the-rack, inexpensive ‘bras’, which, in most cases, they are not allowed to try on. In stores, even the more upscale ones, there are no professional fitters available.

My advice is to read these tips, and go to a store which has a dressing room that facilitates your trying on the ‘bras’.
Before buying a ‘bra’, wear the best fitting ‘bra’ you have, measure the fullest part of your breast, and note the measurement. Next, measure just below your bust-line; if it is an even number like 32, add 4 to it, making it 36; and if it is an odd number, say 31, add 3 to make it 34. This is your Band Size.
Subtract your Band Size from the number you got earlier on the fullest part. This difference is your Cup Size. 1 = A, 2 = B, and so on. If your Band Size is 36 in, the fullest part is 34 in, then your ‘bra’ size will be (36 in – 34 in = 2, 2 = B) i.e. 36B.
You can take this to be your standard size, but different styles and brands of ‘bras’ fit differently, so there will be slight differences in the size.

Once you figure out your size, pick a ‘bra’ you like, and get ready to test it. Fasten it on the loosest hook and loosen the straps. If you have the right ‘bra’, you wouldn’t have to tighten the straps more than halfway. The band of your ‘bra’ should not ride upwards or be too tight. Try putting a finger inside the band to test this. Look down between your breasts; there shouldn’t be any gap between your body and the band. It should stick to you without putting any pressure.
See if your breasts bulge out of the cup. The wire of the ‘bra’ should sit just below the breasts and not on them, and the tip should be off your breasts, under your arm. After you try it on, move your arms around, bend etc to test the comfort and support of the ‘bra’. It should remain firm.
Now, wear a tight top on this ‘bra’ and see the shape of your breasts in the mirror, from the front and side angles. If it fits you perfectly after passing all these tests, then you have found your perfect ‘bra’.
It is a good idea to buy two to three ‘bras’, once you find the right one. Do not go ‘bra’-shopping if you are in a hurry, as you will end up spending on the wrong one.

Problems with the ‘bra’
The problems a woman can encounter with the fit of a ‘bra’ are numerous, and wearing the wrong ‘bra’ can have health implications in the future, as ill-fitted ‘bras’ can cause excess pressure on the breast tissue.
So, always wear a ‘bra’ that fits well, and provides ample support to your breasts.
Here’s a guide to help you troubleshoot some common problems. The guide is not exhaustive, due to space constraints, but it looks at some of the most common problems in the areas of ‘bra’ cups, underwire, centre panels, ‘bra’ straps and ‘bra’ backs.

COMMON PROBLEMS WTH ‘BRA’ CUPS

1. The ‘bra’ cups pucker on one side
Reason: One breast is larger than the other (very common condition). Almost all women have one breast larger than the other. Sometimes the difference is noticeable (more than one cup size difference), more often it’s not. No matter your size difference, there are simple and easy solutions.

Solution:

– Purchase a padded ‘bra’ with removable pads. Take the pad out of the side with the larger breast.
– Purchase breast enhancers, and put one along the bottom of the cup of your smaller breast.
– You can purchase a ‘bra’ with stretch fabric in the cup. The size difference would then be less noticeable, and both cups will fit
– Try adjusting the straps so that the larger breast cup is looser than the smaller breast cup.

2. Breasts are “bulging” out over the top of the ‘bra’
Reason: Your Cup Size is either too small, or cut too low for the size of your breasts.
Solution: Try going up a Cup Size (e.g. from a ‘B’ Cup to a ‘C’ Cup), or choose a ‘bra’ style that has more fabric in the cup. For example, a full coverage cup rather than a demi cup or balconette cup.

3. Correct size, but breast tissue near underarm is falling out
Reason: You have the wrong style ‘bra’.
Solution: Demi ‘bra’ styles and other styles with smaller cup coverage are probably not for you. Such styles are more for women who don’t need much ‘bra’ support. Remember, not all ‘bra’ styles will work on your figure; even if they come in your size.
Instead, select a ‘bra’ with taller sides. Large-busted women with this symptom should consider going up a Cup Size. A larger cup will contain this additional breast tissue.

4. Some ‘bras’ just don’t look right
Reason: Not all ‘bras’ do all things well. A full-cup ‘bra’ may look like it’s strangling you. A demi cup may look too skimpy. Wide-set ‘bra’ straps might make your cups gap; padding may give you lumps and bumps. No one can wear all ‘bra’ styles.
Solution: Assess your figure and see what category you fall into: Petite, full- figure, plus-size, etc.

5. Several ‘bra’ sizes fit me
Reason: You have different ‘bra’ sizes, because different manufacturers make your ‘bras’. Your breast size can change around your period, causing you to need a different size ‘bra’. Or, you do not have clear and stringent ‘bra’-fitting requirements for yourself.

Solution:
– ‘Bra’ manufacturers can call your Cup Size by different letters, if your Cup Size is larger than a D. Find your Universal Cup Size and always find your correct ‘bra’ size.
Many women buy a ‘bra’ style they like in two sizes. They use one size for regular days and another size for period days. This is a great idea, if you have significant breast fluctuation.
Don’t suffer during your seven days by stuffing yourself into a ‘bra’ that’s temporarily too small.
– You need to fully understand what a good-fitting ‘bra’ looks like on you, and not compromise. If a bra’s fit, comfort and/or shape is not right, don’t buy it.

COMMON PROBLEMS WITH UNDERWIRES

1. Underwire is uncomfortable and poking my underarm
Reasons:
– The Cup Size is too small, and places the underwire right on the tender breast tissue, and too far forward on the body.
– The style of the ‘bra’ is not providing a wide enough cup to support your breast.
– The design of the ‘bra’ is placing the cups too close together.

Solution:
Try going up a Cup Size and see if the underwire fits more comfortably (e.g.: 36C to a 36D). Or try a different style ‘bra’ with fuller cup coverage and/or a larger centre panel in front. A large-breasted woman can still experience poking on the sides, even in a ‘bra’ that is the correct size. Therefore, she should look for a ‘bra’ that has side support panels. These panels will push her breast tissue towards the front and away from under her arms.
Also, if this problem is occurring with a minimizer, you should probably stop wearing a minimize, as a minimizer works by flattening your breasts and moving the tissue more under your arms and up your chest. Too much tissue under the arms will get in the way of comfortable movement.

2. Underwire extends under arm when wearing correct size

Reason: You are probably petite in build and/or have a short torso, or have breasts that are high-set on your ribcage. Petite women have this problem because average ‘bras’ are not made for women with short torsos. Therefore, the underwire is too tall, and pokes into their armpits.
Solution: Consider a demi-style ‘bra’, or a ‘bra’ style with less cup coverage and thus shorter underwires. This shorter underwire should reduce poking.

3. Underwires tip away from body between the breasts
Reason:
– Your ‘bra’ cups are not deep enough and/or the centre panel is too narrow at its bottom.
– The underwire is not sitting in your “breast crease” and therefore is not lying flat against your chest.
– Your ‘bra’ may be a minimizer.
– You have close-set or “touching” breasts.

Solution: Try on a larger Cup Size, or select a ‘bra’ with a different shaped centre panel. Your breasts may also be unusually wide, and not resting in underwires well. Consider wearing a soft-cup/wireless ‘bra’. Minimizer underwire ‘bras’ work by compressing breast tissue. One side effect is that sometimes, the centre wires tip outwards. Try another minimize, or forego a minimizer altogether.

4. Can’t find an underwire that fits
Reason: Your breast shape may not be suited for underwires. Some women have breast tissue that extends around their chest and under their arms. An underwire is going to press into breast tissue, and feel very uncomfortable. This is known as a non-traditional breast crease.

Solution: There are many soft-cup/wireless ‘bras’ on the market now.

To be continued next week…