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The minute we arrived at this quaint little village, I was immediately struck by its Old-World beauty and simplicity. And as our explorations began, we soon found out that behind the welcoming smiles of villagers were indeed several grave issues they were battling, and it was certainly making them uncomfortable. That aside, there was an evident contentment and calm about the residents as they strove to make the best out of their diverse situations, and to make ends meet in the village.
Annandale is located some six miles to the east of Georgetown, and is nestled comfortably between the larger villages of Buxton and Lusignan. It is comprised of Annandale North, South, and West, and Courabane Park. Historically, Annandale was always an “Indian (or Indo-Guyanese)” village, but today it has a sizeable population of Afro-Guyanese, although Indians still predominate.
On arrival
We, of course, stopped out at the road sign that indicated we had arrived at our destination, and began our explorations, pausing to chat with residents, who were very receptive of our presence. While there seemed to be little activity in Courabane Park and West Annandale, the North and South areas seemed to be bustling with activity. Courabane Park seemed to be occupied mostly by the elite of society, judging from the posh houses and very elegant ambience that made up its existence.
The very simple and more secluded individuals occupied the other areas, and were either moving around attending to business, or just relaxing in hammocks or on benches under their houses. At first, the ramblings of roadside villagers gave us the impression that all was well in the village, but as we arrived at the Market Road area, we realised that life was not as good as it had initially appeared, since villagers voiced their disapproval of at least two major issues that were affecting their wellbeing and otherwise comfortable existence.
Defective transformer
I was almost moved to tears when interacting with villagers who were sorely affected by a very defective transformer on a pole. They said it would ‘pop and blow’ ever so often with a resounding noise. Shop owners lamented that they have suffered heavy losses as a result of the continuous blackout when the transformer goes, and many housewives are unable to keep fresh meat and other supplies that require freezing to avoid spoilage.
Villagers noted that this has been going on for over two months now. They said that when the Guyana Power and Light Inc is notified, they are forced to wait — sometimes for days — before anyone comes to administer repairs.
We were also told that villagers have been without electricity for two days, since the transformer did its ‘black magic’ again. Some said they had appealed to the GPL outlet on the East Coast, but no one had turned up to look into the problem.
Villagers are calling on GPL authorities to remove the faulty transformer altogether, and replace it with a new one, since its blows even after being repaired; and they suspect this happens as soon as all the residents begin using electrical appliances.
Vegetable vendor Banwattie Singh was very angry about the issue, and did not hesitate to voice her annoyance at the way the GPL was dealing with the matter. “Dem GPL people ain’t fit fuh nutting! Dem get this whole transfarmah ah blow up every time, an ah spile up people meat and vegetables. When yuh call dem, dem tek forevah fuh come! And when dem do come and look afta de transfarmah, it just blow up again! Remove the damn thing and put ah new wan! And who ah guh pay we back fuh we meat and suh dat spile up? GPL is ah waste ah time! Shupppppps…..”.
Businessman Philip Narine was very angry at the fact that lots of his goods in cold storage had spoilt overtime because of the frequent blackouts in the area. “These GPL people tek dem eyes fuh pass people heah! Look how long we are complaining about this transformer, and all they keep doing is doing repairs, none of which is working! They are making big-time money! Why can’t they remove this old thing and bring a new one? I have had major losses because of the blackouts in this area, and still continue to do so. I really don’t know when this will end”.
Garbage pile-up
There is definitely a garbage disposal issue in the village, and many residents are complaining of the danger to public health.
Vendors plying their trade alongside the Market Road seemed to be those mostly affected, since there is a huge pile of garbage just at the junction where this street joins the East Coast Highway, and the stench emitted is almost unbearable.
One female food vendor who desired to be anonymous said that, because her fast food stall was just a few rods away from the garbage pile, she was losing considerable sales. The woman said persons are reluctant to patronize her stall because of the unsightly presence and rancid stench of garbage, which is inevitably attracting flies and other vermin. Moreover, patrons have to sit and dine just a few rods from the refuse.
Villagers said the NDC would appear on scene to clean garbage only every two months, so the garbage piles are left to rot and stink wherever they can be found.
And some very angry housewives declared that the garbage is thrown around the village by very lazy residents, who are reluctant to burn their refuse.
Garbage piles could also be seen in the side streets, through alleyways, and along the Market Road.
Economic drought
The wails and lamentations of vendors and some shop owners were very disheartening as they told tales of a seeming ‘economic drought’ that was engulfing some sections of the village. While there has been a very significant reduction in customer purchasing power in the shops and vegetable stalls, the vendors and business owners are certainly feeling the squeeze. Some persons attributed this dilemma to the fact that many persons are now jobless, but others indicated that the demands of readying the kids for school has taken great impact on the pockets of many families.
Vendor, Bonita Rodrigues, who was fast asleep in her stall due to lack of sales, almost toppled over when I attempted to wake her. She had a wild, frightened look as if she were being chased by demons.
She, however, smartly recovered her composure, and with a coy smile told us her theory of the reason why sales were drastically dwindling. “Boy, I fell asleep because there is really nothing doing. Sales are so slow these days that sometimes I just feel like staying home. But this is how I earn a living, so I have to come out every day and see what I can get. I believe the fact that the sugar workers executed a strike just recently has really thrown a damper on our sales, since they were the persons who would purchase the most from us. Added to that, school clothes and other supplies have taken their toll on the pockets of housewives, so they are unable to shop like before.
“I am also of the opinion that because of the disruptions at the sugar estate, many persons are out of jobs, so their spending power is limited,” she said.
Spirited shoemaker
It appears that Annandale is truly inhabited by very contented people who, despite challenges, face them with steely resolve to overcome, and devise innovative and ingenious ways to surmount their challenges.
To substantiate this fact, a somewhat secluded shoemaker who has been operating in Annandale for the past twenty years showed us some of his work. I could not help but marvel at the way his fingers seemed to work magic as he deftly brought ragged shoes back to life and repaired those that are normally discarded by some people.
Shoemaking is all Sean Rambarran has known for the past twenty years, and it the only means by which he earns a livelihood. He has a wife and four children depending on him for their sustenance. In his line of business, sales fluctuate, but he sadly conceded that he also was experiencing the effects of the economic downturn that was visiting areas of the Demerara East Coast.
“Boss, I am a satisfied man, and I am always thankful for what little I can get from my trade. Some days I make as much as $10,000, but not these days. People are not bringing shoes like before, and I am barely able to meet the demands for meals and other supplies at home.
“It’s not easy for me, because I have four children to feed, and some days I can hardly even meet the $3000 margin. Those kids have to eat, get clothes, and go to school. So, you see boss, things really hard on me.”
Sean’s work is as excellent as any shoemaker who has been trained to do his job, but he told an amusing tale of how he actually got into the trade. “I was never trained by anyone. One day, the bottom fell off from a shoe for my daughter, and I had to take it for repairs by a relative who was very experienced in the job. He was very busy, so he just gruffly gave me some thread and a huge needle and said, ‘watch and learn’. I looked keenly and followed what he was doing. Everything was going fine until the needle plunged into my thumb.
“As I howled in pain, that man just got up swearing, and producing a very sharp knife, cut my flesh apart and dragged out the needle.”
It must have been that horrid experience that propelled Sean forward, because after then, he became one of the most talented shoemakers in Annandale. Sean covers, repairs, builds and resoles shoes, and all his work has the trademark of excellence.
Brighter side of life
There were many residents who admitted to enjoying the comfort of proper drainage; paved streets; and clean, potable water.
And here we admonished ourselves not to listen to negative hearsay, but to find out things for ourselves. On indicating to a few associates that I was going to Annandale, I was warned not to jeopardize my wellbeing by going there, because there were existing conflicts between residents of Annandale and Buxton.
Nonetheless, we visited, and from what we saw there, mutual respect and camaraderie exist between residents of both villages. In the rum shops and food stalls, both Buxtonians and those from Annandale were knocking glasses and having meals as they enjoyed jovial banter. Bare-backed youths were riding over from Buxton on bicycles, their chocolate-brown bodies glistening in the midday sun. They stopped to chat with their Annandale buddies at various locations in the village. In the stores and shops, housewives from both villages were chatting amicably as they debated over-the-counter prices and the quality of household supplies.
And Annandale today, like many other villages, has been upgraded from being a smattering of houses in bygone years to fast becoming one of the better established villages on the Demerara East Coast, according to village elder Sadiek Seeram.
Today the village has assumed an impressive fusion of Old World allure and modernity that accentuates its heightened infrastructure. Annandale has lots of historic connection to the Lusignan Estate, which existed during the ‘era of the slaves’. After slavery was abolished, the backdam people of Lusignan Estate left the sugar company’s cramped barrack housing and moved to their own individual houses in Annandale Village. Thereafter, they enjoyed better conditions, freedom from interference by the estate authorities, and more involvement in the wider life of Guyana. But something surely left them – the old closeness, the old certainties – as the people exchanged their communal life for their own separate ‘high houses’, and the coherent Indianness of the estate days became challenged by the new messages brought by the radio, politicians, and ‘clap-hand’ Christians.
Today Annandale boasts thriving businesses like Torginol, for paint supplies; Global for spare parts; and, of course, there is the Annandale Community Development Centre. Then there is Modern Grafix, the spanking Doobay Medical Centre Inc., and the Hindu Temple for worshipping. There is also the Annandale Assembly of God Church, which gives villagers a choice of religion.
And the young ladies can certainly spruce up and maintain their glamorous streak at Bibi’s Fashion Centre. There are several grocery and variety stores in the villages, and of course villages have the option of making their purchases at the nearby Mon Repos market, where prices are reputedly far cheaper.
And like many villages, Annandale has also produced stalwarts. One worthy of mention is gifted author Rooplall Monar.
Rooplall Monar
Rooplall Monar was born in a mud floor logie on the Lusignan sugar estate, East Coast Demerara, in 1945. His parents were both cane workers, and his mother continued to work on her own ground provision plot daily, long after she retired from estate work.
The Monar family moved to Annandale Village in 1953 and occupied a house with their own plot of land. Although much extended over the years, this house remains Monar’s home. He attended the Lusignan Government School, Buxton Congregational School, Hindu College, and the Annandale Evening College. He worked at various times as a teacher, accounts clerk, freelance journalist, broadcaster and practitioner of folk healing (herbal cures).
He began writing in the mid-1960s and came to notice in 1967 with a prize-winning poem, ‘The Creole Gang’. His early poems were published in New World, Kaie, Voices, and various anthologies. His first published collection, Meanings (1972), begins his exploration of the consciousness of the Indo-Guyanese ‘divided by horizon’s edges, yet/ telling of no other worlds/ but mine’.
His second collection, Patterns (1983), continued the creative but painful potential of this limbo consciousness, asking ‘Who am I/between buried copper trunks/voices in the cemeteries?/Oh whom am I/between a dying consciousness,/a growing vision.’
Monar also began to write short stories, encouraged by his blood brother, the folklorist and poet Wordsworth McAndrew, pushing the use of an Indo-Guyanese inflected Creole to a depth not seen before. The result of extensive interviews and listening to older people, these stories began to be broadcast on GBS around 1976, though it was almost another ten years before they saw publication as the classic Backdam People, first published in 1985 and in a new edition in 1987.
At this time, in the 1970s, Monar was part of the Messenger group, which included Rajkumari Singh, Guska Kissoon and Beatrice Muniyan, and part of an Annandale group of poets, which included Bramdeo Persaud, George Vidyahanand and Randall Butisingh.
After Backdam People, Peepal Tree brought out a collection of Monar’s poems, Koker (1987), followed by his novel, Janjhat (1989), which explores the tempestuous first year of a marriage under the interfering pressure of the boy’s mother.
The move from estate to village life is explored in the short stories of High House and Radio, which sees the backdam people leave their logies for their new high houses and the coherent Indianness of the estate, challenged by the new visions brought by the radio, politicians and the pursuit of more individual lives.
Monar has since written two works of popular fiction, Ramsingh Street and Tormented Wives (1999). In 1987, he was awarded a special Judges’ Prize for his contribution to Guyanese writing.
Employment and Entertainment
Save for the few rum shops in Annandale, there is no really extensive, big time nightclub for villagers to have frolic and fun. But the people have evolved and are indeed very civilized and sophisticated.
So it has become customary to see residents of this village at entertainment ventures on areas along the East Coast of Demerara, in Georgetown, and in a few other areas. And the nearby Lusignan Community Centre Ground is never short of massive entertainment events, so villagers are never lacking on leisure time activities. And of course they enjoy their main festivity — weddings, birthdays and other functions.
Many residents in Annandale are employed at the Enmore Sugar Estate, and just a few are farmers. Others have taken up positions as vendors and fish mongers, while some also occupy administrative positions outside the village.
It’s a quaint little village with very impressive features, but it’s most arresting factor is the simplicity and contentment displayed by villagers, even in the midst of adversity.
