The Shrimp Plant
THE SHRIMP Plant, the scientific name of which is Justicia (jus-TEE-see-ah) brandegeana (bran-dij-ee-AN-uh), is a shrub that is commonly so called because its shrimp-like flowers.

Its three-inch leaves, on the other hand, are dark green and oval, with a pointed tip on the end, while their undersides are downy.
The flowers are generally white, usually long and thin, with their speckled maroon throats and shrimp-like contour from which the plant took its name. Laden with nectar, flowers tend to droop and curl and stick their tongues out playfully from between two lips.
The plant has accordingly been described by many horticulturalists as a magnet for hummingbirds and butterflies, and said to be among the ‘Top Ten’ exotic hummingbird plants.
Available locally, the Shrimp Plant is native to Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras.
It got its first name, Justicia, from Scottish botanist, James Justice (1698-1763), and its last, brandegeana, from American botanist, Townshend Stith Brandagee (1843-1925).
Brandagee and his wife, Mary Curren, wrote many California botany books, and for their honeymoon, they hiked from San Diego to San Francisco, botanizing all the way.

The Shrimp Plant is low-maintenance, meaning that it is very easy to care for, will grow very well in drought conditions, and does not need to be moved out of full sunlight.
It can be planted in pots, and is said to be excellent for patios and/or any other part of the home.
Outdoors, it can also be planted in mixed flower beds and borders for a mass of colour all year long, and can be propagated by stem cuttings.
This striking and unusual looking shrub with its green leaves and white ‘shrimplike’ flowers are available at Flower Paradise on the Eccles Public Road, East Bank Demerara (Tel# 233-3029) at prices ranging generally from $1500 and upwards.
COMPOSTING: THE ROAD TO A HEALTHIER GARDEN
COMPOST is like a miracle for soil as it helps loosen heavy clay so plants can thrive, and helps sandy soil hold nutrients and moisture better.
It also encourages beneficial microorganisms that help your plants grow strong and healthy. Plus, as it breaks down, compost feeds your plants organically.

The basics
It’s easy to cook up your own compost. Just layer organic materials — garden clippings, dry leaves, kitchen vegetable scraps, shredded paper — and a dash of dirt to create a concoction that turns into humus, the best soil builder around.
Before you start, however, you need to recognize that there are two types of composting: Cold and hot. Cold composting is as simple as collecting your yard waste, or taking out the organic materials in your trash (such as fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, and egg shells) and then corralling them in a pile or bin. Over the course of a year or so, the material will decompose.
Hot composting, on the other hand, is for the more serious gardener, and you get compost in one to three months during warm weather. Four ingredients are required for fast-cooking hot compost: Fresh ‘green’ plant material, dry ‘brown’ plant material, air, and water. Together, these items feed microorganisms, which speed up the process of decay.
To create your own organic hot-compost heap, wait until you have enough material to make a pile at least three (3) feet deep. Then, to ensure an even composition, create alternating four to eight-inch layers of green and brown materials.
Green materials consist of vegetable scraps, grass clippings, and plant trimmings. Brown materials include dried leaves and shredded newspaper. Sprinkle water over the pile regularly so it has the consistency of a damp sponge. Don’t add too much water, or the microorganisms will become waterlogged and won’t heat the pile properly. You can check the temperature of the pile with a thermometer or simply reach into the middle of the pile with your hand.
During the growing season, you should provide the pile with oxygen by turning it once a week with a garden fork. The best time to turn the compost is when the centre of the pile feels warm, or the thermometer reads between 130 and 150 degrees. Stirring up the pile helps it cook faster, and prevents material from becoming matted down and developing a bad odor. At this point, the layers have served their purpose of creating equal amounts of green and brown materials throughout the pile, so stir thoroughly.
When the compost no longer gives off heat and becomes dry, brown, and crumbly, it’s fully cooked and ready to feed to the garden.
Good ‘greens’ for your compost box
• Fruit scraps
• Vegetable scraps
• Eggshells
• Coffee grounds
• Grass and plant clippings
Good ‘browns’ for your compost box
• Dry leaves
• Finely chopped wood and bark chips
• Shredded newspaper
• Straw
• Sawdust from untreated wood
Bad for composting
• Anything containing meat, oil, fat, grease
• Diseased plant materials
• Sawdust or chips from pressure-treated wood
• Dog or cat faeces
• Weeds that go to seed
• Dairy products