GRASSHOPPERS, a delicacy in Mexico, created quite a culinary stir recently when the Mexican Embassy here hosted its second Food Festival at the Pegasus Hotel. Chef Gerardo Ramos, who came all the way from Mexico especially for the event, welcomed his patrons with a big bowl of the insects, called ‘chapulines’, a term derived from the Nahuatl language that is specific to Mexico.
Another novelty and popular snack food which made the menu on the night in question was ‘Tlayudas’, a dish native to Oaxaca. This dish, which is also part of traditional Mexican fare, consists of a large, thin, crunchy partially-fried or toasted tortilla, which can be covered with a spread of beans, lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat, cheese and salsa among other toppings.
But many seem to prefer the chapulines topping.
Food varies throughout Mexico due to differences in local climate and geography and ethnic differences among the indigenous inhabitants, as well as ethnic differences due to the population being influenced by the Spaniards to varying degrees.
Mexican cuisine is known worldwide for its variety of colour and flavours and the use of a variety of spices and ingredients. Corn is important to Mexico’s cuisine, and is used to make dough (called masa) for tamales, tortillas, gorditas and as a component of many dishes. So too are chili peppers, cumin, oregano, cilantro, epazote, cinnamon, and cocoa. Chipotle, a smoke-dried jalapeño chili is a common ingredient in Mexican cuisine.
The buffet-style ‘fest’ paid tribute to all six of Mexico’s regions, featuring sumptuous choices such as ‘Chicken Tinga’, ‘Chicken Mole’, ‘Pork in Morita Sauce’, ‘Cochinta Pibil’, ‘Beef Slices with Albanil Sauce’, ‘Burritos’, ‘Tlayudas’, ‘Chilaquiles’ and salads such as the ‘Citric Salad’ and ‘Cactus Salad’
Rice is probably second only to corn as the most important grain in Mexican cuisine, and has a long history behind it. The introduction of rice to Spain from North Africa in the 4th Century eventually led to the Spanish introduction of rice into Mexico at the port of Veracruz in the 1520s. The ‘Jardinera’ (garden) rice available last year was absent, but there was plenty of wholesome brown rice available.
One of the most versatile dishes on the menu was the ‘Chicken Tinga’, a shredded chicken dish comprised of a wide variety of spices, including chipotle peppers, which are important to Mexican cuisine, sourcream, tomatoes and garlic. This dish can be eaten with rice, tortillas, tostados or by itself.
The ‘Cochinita pibil’, on the other hand, is a traditional Mexican slow-roasted pork dish from the Yucatán Península. ‘Cochinita’ refers to a baby pig, so traditionally, a whole piglet is roasted. Preparation of traditional ‘cochinita’ or ‘puerco pibil’ involves marinating the meat in strongly acidic citrus juice, colouring it with annatto seed, and roasting it. Yucatecan recipes always use the juice of Seville or bitter oranges for marinating. The high acid content of the marinade, and the slow cooking time tenderizes the meat, allowing otherwise tough pieces of meat to be used. The meat gets it characteristic colouring from achiote (annatto), which also helps add to its flavour. Traditionally, cochinita pibil was buried in a pit with a fire at the bottom to roast it. The Mayan word ‘pibil’ means ‘buried’.
Same as last year, the ‘moles’ (pronounced mo-lay) were back on the menu, featuring this time around the ‘Chicken Mole’. ‘Mole’ is the generic name used for several sauces used in Mexican cuisine, as well as for dishes based on these sauces. Outside of Mexico, the term often refers to a specific sauce, which is known in Spanish by the more specific name, ‘mole poblano’. It is now used, however, in Mexico to describe a number of sauces, including black, red, Colorado, green, almendrado and pipian.
The chapulines, which got so much attention, appear deceptively simple but take a good deal of preparation. Firstly, the insects are thoroughly washed and then they are roasted. Garlic, lemon juice, chili pepper and salt containing an extract of the agave worm are added. The agave worm salt gives a sour-spicy-salty taste to the finished product.
Of course, the festival would not be complete without a wide selection of special desserts. And who could forget the desserts of last year, especially the Cajeta? The Cajeta is a Mexican confection of thickened syrup, usually made from sweetened carmelised milk. I and my dinner companion had put the cajeta on our bunuelos, our fruit salad and everything we ate.
Different desserts appeared this time around; there was no cajeta, no bunelos; and no flan or churros, but there were plenty of other equally interesting treats, such as ‘Obleas’ (waffle candies) and ‘Pepitorias’. Pepitorias, made from pumpkin and sesame seeds brought by the Spaniards, are sometimes given as gifts in Mexico. These candies were available wrapped in brightly coloured pieces of paper making an eye-catching statement.
The food was accompanied by Mexican music and video slide shows of Mexican sites and traditions. The event was part of a packed programme of activities hosted by the Mexican Embassy in Guyana in honour of Mexico’s Biennial Independence celebrations.
The night it rained grasshoppers
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