A paradise hidden away
A scene of serenity from Black Bush Polder, Berbice. (Photo by Vishani Ragobeer)
A scene of serenity from Black Bush Polder, Berbice. (Photo by Vishani Ragobeer)

IT SEEMS as though every time I travel somewhere new in Guyana, I am left awestruck at the pure beauty of my country. And everywhere I travel becomes my new favourite place.

A scene of serenity from Black Bush Polder, Berbice. (Photo by Vishani Ragobeer)

I’ve travelled to Berbice a few times before, but never as far as Black Bush Polder and obviously since I was practically familiar with the Ancient county, I expected Black Bush to be just like the rest of Berbice.

Getting to Berbice was no hassle at all. I just got in a taxi that was at the bus park and it was one smooth drive that lasted about two hours. Though I will concede, my driver Jason had to entertain a lot of questions from me- especially about the huge silk cotton tree that is in the middle of the road at some point along the journey- and well, my terrible singing (but it was his fault for playing good music).

When you cross over the Berbice Bridge and head into New Amsterdam you might say it is just like Georgetown. But out of New Amsterdam and heading down south to Black Bush is an entirely different setting. The crowded streets littered with big buildings slowly transformed to endless fields of coconut trees, rice fields and sugarcane plantations. Somewhere along this journey, you’ll find a signboard that signals you’re in the Black Bush area but even here, the scenery barely changes from the greenery you’ve gotten familiar with.

The sunset over the ‘trench’ (or canal) in Black Bush Polder

It is quite easy to believe that you are far away from the busy, fast-paced lifestyle when you’re in this community. It is so quiet and peaceful that you can hear all of the coconut trees rustling and every now and then, you might hear the sound of a speedboat engine or a motorbike or a tractor, but it would never bother you. The only way I can describe this serenity is that it is one that makes you perpetually sleepy, because of how at peace you are.

And though I was a bit busy during my time in Berbice, I felt as though I had thoroughly enjoyed myself during the few days.

Visiting the Amazonia rice mill is an excellent choice if you want to understand the livelihood of the people. Word of caution though, if you are planning to head to Black Bush Polder and you want to see the mill in action, don’t go after the harvesting season. The only workings you’ll be seeing then is the maintenance ongoing unless of course, the person at the front office is nice enough to show you the process of making the rice with the model machines in the office.

Romeo ‘Mystic’ Nermal giving us a boat ride

Another stellar choice is going for a boat ride along the canal that cuts through the entire community and is seemingly never-ending. But this is one adventure that is not for the faint at heart because the speedboats you’re travelling in don’t have seats- that space is needed when transporting things like manure to the fields. Sitting on the narrow edge of the boat (or should I say tray) is generally accepted, you can stand if you’re feeling daring or sit flat if you’re too scared. It’s really up to you.

If you’re truly adventurous, like I am, you’d find that sitting on the bow of the boat is quite the experience. But hazards include hitting your head on any and all of the bridges that are built across the canal. My advice is to lay low during these times.

In the absolute authentic Berbice fashion, Romeo ‘Mystic’ Nermal, aka the ‘Coolie Boy’ was the one who took me and my friends on this boat ride. When we first heard we would meet the local celebrity, of course, we were excited but imagine how over-the-moon we were when he offered to take us on an adventure.

And if the entire situation wasn’t already perfect, imagine being on this boat ride and being able to witness the afternoon sun set behind the coconut trees. Truly, there are few things that can compare to the feeling of sitting on the bow of a boat, traversing a canal with the wind gently brushing against the face, and seeing the golden sun over the water descend behind coconut trees. It is literally one of the most mind-blowing scenes you will ever see.

Excitement over a cute kid (baby goat)- Photos by Vishani Ragobeer

Hands down though, the best part of Black Bush Polder is the people. Everyone in the community acts as though they are one, big happy family. Whether it was Romeo taking us on a boat ride; cooking to feed practically the entire village; or stopping some car that’s passing by to ask from a drop to and from the rice mill, the people all had this ingrained sense of camaraderie.

Sometimes though, they might laugh at your wonder at the place they have grown accustomed to. My friend laughed at my amazement when I related my adventures and said to me, “I love when y’all town people come to Black Bush.”

Here’s why she found my sentiments funny; we didn’t travel in a river or even a canal, it was a trench- by Black Bush standards, at least. And when I shared the story of my fellow GT friend going crazy for a baby goat (even to the point of kissing it), my Black Bush Polder friends found it absolutely ludicrous.

If you are looking for a peaceful yet adventurous time, Black Bush Polder is definitely the place for you.

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