I STOOD there relishing the peals of happy laughter coming from jovial residents. That laughter was laced with the pleasant mutterings of still peppy grandmothers as they fussed around the many roadside stalls, arguing over the rising prices of kitchen items.

The constant hum of men engaged in pleasant conversations by the rum shops was soothing to the soul, and the bubbly chattering of students hopping about in the Chateau Margot Primary School compound caused me to marvel at the rich and yet humble existence of this village.

I was lucky to be visiting this enchanting East Coast Demerara village of Chateau Margot, located some eight miles from the capital city of Georgetown. The village is ensconced between the appealing locations of Success to the west and La Bonne Intention (LBI) to the east.

With an estimated population of 1,000 residents, this village is home of the historic Chateau Margot Chimney, which once was part of a nineteenth century sugar factory that was broken down or perhaps disintegrated.

All that remains now is the tall brick chimney which reaches into the sky and is something of a landmark on the lower East Coast Demerara.

ORIGINS

Chateau Margot had once been a sugar estate, but the village, according to one resident, had its origins in the 1860s. The humble cottages from those days have been replaced over time with posh and, in some cases, stately buildings, creating a distinct indication that the village is rapidly evolving with time.

While the village is predominantly occupied by residents of East Indian ancestry, there are a few persons of African ancestry and some of mixed races who have taken up residence there over the years, and they all live as one big happy family, so to speak.

CHATEAU MARGOT CHIMNEY

Standing at the front of the village from which its name is derived, Chateau Margot Chimney dates back to July 1, 1889. It is the solitary remnant of a former sugar factory which, according to a description from the weekly Argosy of 1883, ‘boasted the finest cane land in the colony of British Guiana during the nineteenth century, operating successfully on the vacuum pan process for many years.’

The chimney was constructed of red bricks on a huge concrete base by a brick layer named Anlemo Gordon who hailed from Buxton, East Coast Demerara, and apart from its functions during the time of sugar operations, the chimney served as a beacon to ships approaching Port Georgetown, and this state of affairs continued even after the sugar factory was demolished.

Still standing today, this site represents an aspect of our nation’s industrial heritage, thus signifying a very important historical milestone. It reflects mankind’s dual power of creation and destruction; the hope of a better life, and the ever greater power over matter.

On completion of his task, when he saw the volume of smoke that was being emitted from the chimney, Anlemo Gordon exclaimed: “Had it not been for the God of Abraham, the God of Isaac and the God of Jacob, I would have drowned the heavens with smoke!”

The chimney has been the theme for two Annandale poets — Rooplal Monar, a national prizewinner, and ‘Guska,’ a poet and artist.

TOUCHING DOWN

I arrived in the village at around 08:30 hours, just as mothers were ensuring their kids were rushing off to school before the sudden chiming of the 09:00 hour school bell.

Some mothers who sat under their homes still enjoying a breakfast of roti and salt fish, or bake and stewed pumpkin, looked up sharply at our entrance, and attempted to hide their stew bowls as they smilingly enquired of our presence.

At many houses, fathers looked up sharply, wiping beads of perspiration from their foreheads as they paused from their energetic chipping of soil or forking of the earth in their kitchen gardens.

I could not help marvelling at the simplicity of these people, and I wished that I had been living in a village with such a pleasant lifestyle.

Even the cows and sheep seemed to be at ease and docile as they grazed lazily in wide open spaces, chewing on lush, green and juicy looking grass and plant species made tastier by constant rainfall. Every now and then they seemed to roll their eyes heavenward, and looked at us accusingly as if to ask, “How dare you people interrupt my pleasant morning meal?”

In some areas, pigs ran about squealing and grunting noisily, and how they ran off with shrill noises as enraged housewives chased after them with sticks and large bricks for daring to tumble amongst their flower plants, celery, or well-kept earthen beds of eschallot.

Young girls busied themselves at roadside stalls, trading polouri, egg balls, dhal puri and other snack items to hungry passersby and employees arriving all muddied and soiled from toiling at nearby sugar estates.

The village was a kaleidoscope of colours, made even more striking by brightly painted houses and shops, and several yards almost overflowing with flower plants that are associated with the tropics.

Mango and cashew trees were straining under the weight of ripened fruits, and young boys were just savouring the fruits of their choice, pausing to lick the delicious juices from their fingers.

Interacting with villagers

Intent on getting detailed information on the makings of the village, I made enquiries and was directed to 77-year-old Mohan Samaroo, who was more than ready to chat with us.

Realising we were media operatives, he quickly buttoned his shirt, fixed his cap, and mustered one of his most boyish smiles as he directed us to a seat under a rather shady mango tree in front of his residence.

Mr. Samaroo said he had lived all his life in the village, and he reminisced on his growing up years as a young boy. Though he wishes that the ‘good old days’ can return, he welcomes the vibrant changes of modern transformation.

“Bai, lang time was really good days. Ah we nah bin get prappa currant and good wata supply like today, but we bin always ah live in peace and harmony wid neighbours and friends, and everybady bin ah share with dem mattie. In dem time, people bin ah live in logies and mud houses, and only a few rich people bin get fancy buildings. Dem house bin deh far apart, and most ah de village was open pastures. Me can still remembah dem days when me mumma used to bake ah roti pon a big taawah pon de open fyahside, and how we used to sit down flat pon de well daubed battam house and eat we food wid we fingas. Dem days was real nice days, bai,” Samaroo reminisce.

Mr. Samaroo echoed the sentiments of many villagers that life was ‘bright and beautiful’ in Chateau Margot, and he said he was thankful that the Government has ensured residents enjoy a good water supply, electricity, and comfortable means of living.

Shabanie Ali, a young vendor and mother of one, lives in a small makeshift house by the roadside, and assists in fending for her family by selling vegetables and ground provisions. She, too, was a reflection of the deep humility and contentment that appears to be strong points amongst the people of Chateau Margot.

This well spoken young woman smiled endearingly throughout our entire conversation.

“I have been doing this business for just about over one year now. The reason I started was because, as we know, more working hands in the home will certainly make things easier. It took a little time for my customer base to build up, but eventually it did, and so there are many happy faces that come to my stall these days.

“I try to keep my prices at a point where it meets the pockets of villagers and where I am able to make a profit to turn over my goods. Every day is not Christmas, and as such it does not surprise me when the demand for my goods goes up or down. But this is what I do for a living, and I have been getting by, if not excellently, really comfortably.

“At least it brings in an honest dollar, and it helps to make the cost of living a bit easier,” she said.

Ali said she wakes up at about 06:00 hours in the morning to prepare breakfast, and then she sets up her stall at 07:00 hours. She alternates between selling her customers and tending to her one-year-old daughter all day, before retiring, sometimes at 20:00 hours, to make dinner and later retire to bed.

Kalouttie Seetaram, a very kind and considerate woman, sells water coconuts in a little stall in front of her home, and she does this to bring in an extra dollar and to help out her husband who works in the fields as a labourer.

“My husband is a very hard-wukking man, and taking care of a family these days is not easy; so I decided to do dis lil venture to help out in de home. My son would help me in getting dem wata coconuts together, and sometimes my daughter will help me to sell also.

“Dis kindah business pays off, and we always get a fast turn ovah. I bin doing dis fuh de past sixteen years, and meh customers does always be satisfied with meh price rating.”

Mrs. Seetaram would customarily set up her lush looking water coconuts at 06:00 hours, and would operate her small stall, sometimes till after 20:00 hours, depending on demand.

FEW MISGIVINGS
We searched the village high and low, but all the reports received suggest that all is well with the residents, who noted that they are ‘living reasonably well and always ‘looking out for each other.’

Villagers are, however, concerned about the state of some of the access roads which have begun to deteriorate in the area, and are of the view that, if those roads are ignored, they will eventually become intolerable.

Several housewives are, however, aghast at the manner in which some farmers are allowing their pigs to ‘stray about the village,’ romping in the drains around homes, and in many cases in kitchen gardens.

Babita Sooklall was forthright in voicing her disgust at the situation, and hopes that the authorities could have the animals impounded and their owners pay a fine.

There she was, a big buxom woman, with hands on her ample hips as she heaved and puffed with anger at the menace the pigs had become. “I can’t understand why dem stupid people this can’t keep dem pigs in dem pens! Like dem is some pigs themselves, because I can’t see why dem get dem suwah pigs all ovah de place, destroying we flowah plants and crops.”
Some residents declared that the garbage trucks would come to the village only once per month, and some inconsiderate residents are in the habit of throwing their refuse on dams in the village.

That aside, many were in high praise over the fact that the NDC body was looking into the welfare of villagers, and had recently begun to clean and desilt drains to prevent flooding.

With street lights present on the main road, some villagers are calling to have the same installed in every access road in the village.

ENTERTAINMENT

The village has no big time night club or anything like that, but residents make the best of a few hangout bars and liquor shops there. So it is customary to see reasonable gatherings on weekends at such joints, or larger groups if Muntie’s Liquor Restaurant and Bar, or Anand’s Country Club and Karaoke Bar when it decides to host a major entertainment venture.

Apart from that, villagers are contented with hosting birthday and wedding celebrations, to which almost all of the village will attend upon invitation.

With an almost non-existent threat of criminal elements, the village is normally festive and appealing with the feisty inhabitants living there.

LIVELIHOOD
Villagers all seem to possess the ‘get up and get attitude’, so there is really no unemployment problem there, like obtains in some other locations.

Residents are engaged as masons, carpenters, and fishermen, while a few qualified persons are employed at the Chateau Margot Primary School as teachers. A large number of residents seek work at the Enmore and other sugar estates, while many have chosen to be vegetable and fruit vendors.

Yes, there are a few taxi drivers around, and others earn a living by transporting items on horse-drawn carts.
Villagers are indeed thankful for the operations of the Richie’s Furniture Establishment, which has offered numerous employment opportunities to youths in the village.

CONCLUSION
At the end of my visit, I was not only elated at being there, but sincerely regretted leaving. The warmth that exuded from the people had somehow found its way deep within my soul, and their infectious smiles and welcoming laughter kept flashing on my mind’s horizon.

Aside from that, the succulent juices of sapodilla, mangoes and juicy cashews were still lingering in my mouth. Of course I was saving a few in my bag for later, when I got home and can enjoy them with relish.

Come on, folks, this is an opportunity of a lifetime…Come take a trip to Chateau Margot and be caught up in a whirlpool of smiling faces, tropical laughter and warm camaraderie that would leave lingering pleasant memories.

By Alex Wayne